In a new book, Delhi-based sommelier Magandeep Singh shares fascinating vignettes of the untold story of alcohol in India. Excerpts from an interview
What was the impetus to write a book on the history of alcohol in India?
It was the culmination of the many times that I, while travelling, have been asked whether Indians drink alcohol and, if they do, is there anything else besides cheap whiskey available in the country? Also, every time I hold presentations on wine and spirits, I realise that there are so many interesting anecdotes that dot our rich heady past. Why not delve into them a bit more and compile them. I am sure many still remain waiting to be unearthed.
Illustration/Uday Mohite
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With limited material available on the subject, how difficult was it to research this book?
The research was long, yes. I had to comb through the accounts of ancient travellers, find as many translations of Indian ancient texts available and then scan them for references to alcohol. These books don't have indexes, so, it was all down to me and my post-its, reading and markings. Then came the compilation stage, where I put all the
collected data down on a timeline. This chronological sequencing was important to be able to weave a story, fill the gaps with intelligent guesses where needed, and basically bring it all together.
India has had a long love-hate relationship with alcohol. From Mughal emperor Akbar banning it to the prohibition in the 20th century, there has always been resistance towards it. Why do you think this is?
Well Akbar banned it, but his own son let it flow, and how! The point of my book is precisely this - prohibition is an extreme form of control; it never works. To bring a certain civility to any exercise or indulgence, one needs to educate oneself on it, embrace it, respect it, and that is where awareness and control comes from. Outright prohibition leads to ignorance, which is the root of all abuse.
Magandeep Singh
Have you had the chance to try any of the indigenous spirits mentioned in the book?
I wish I could have tried all. Most that I have tried were done through friends. The trouble is two-fold: these alcohols aren't allowed to leave their regions (they aren't even manufactured commercially). And, many of them don't fare well over long distances. So, either drink them at source or, well, wait for someone to tell you how awesome it was,
or not!
There's a lengthy chapter on India's tryst with wine. Do you think local wine brands have set remarkably high standards?
India's future holds a lot of good wine in it. Also, good beers, whiskies and gins. In short, we shall raise the level of what we drink by moving towards quality. And that is a big step toward bringing civility to the way alcohol is consumed and perceived, but it also adds to our already rich heritage, a legacy we can leave behind as a continuity to the treasure trove of cuisines that are already synonymous with India.
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