Parsi families have long treasured Gara saris, exquisitely embroidered and handed down over generations. Designer Ashdeen Lilaowala’s collection on Day 4, as part of the Indian Textile Show gave one a fair idea of this tradition.
The black-and-white international colour trend (blindly followed by several designers at Fashion Week) was used effectively, by Ashdeen with black dresses and saris working as a background for the traditional Gara embroidery done in white.
The crane and floral motifs that form essential elements of the Gara style of thread work took centrestage with just a hint of colour used for the beaks. Ashdeen also created a few pieces in red and white, with subtle pearl embellishments.
The second label — Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta saw some interesting translucent trousers made of Chanderi silk, worn with undershorts. The footwear, brogues made using Indian fabric, stood out.
The final collection of the group show by Swati Kalsi achieved what several designers have been trying to in vain — a mix of Western silhouettes with Indian fabrics, and a bit of quirk while using overdone graphic prints of everyday objects. Kalsi used a subtle palate of blues, greys and ivory, with hints of yellow and orange.
Using a simple running stitch style of embroidery called Sujani from Bihar, Kalsi created an interesting surface texture. Another interesting bit was the models wearing 'awaz kapsi'-styled kolhapuri chappals modified to look like gladiator sandals.
It felt good to hear the scrunch of traditional Indian chappals made contemporary rather than the click of the heel on the ramps The second show kept the Swadeshi flag flying high as adaptability of Indian fabric was in full view.
Designer Daniel Syiem who hails from Shillong Meghalaya presented a line titled, Ryndia — a collection of outfits created from a fabric by the same name. Ryndia, a heritage fabric was sourced from Meghalaya’s Ri-Bhoi district, and merged with Western silhouettes structured (palazzo pants, again) and de-constructed wrap dresses.
Syiem’s designs made for a great showcase of stylish relaxed wear, living up to the promise, as we’d predicted, when reported on our pages, during Fashion Week.
Designer Gaurang's line of pleated lehengas with woven floral motif give an artisanal twist to bridal wears. We loved the katputli latkans, which were added by the designer at the ends of the duppattas and the back of blouses.
Purvi Doshi’s line, titled Sanrakshan saw a colourful splash of embroidered birds, ladybugs and plants on outfits crafted out of breathable white fabric — a great way to support the cause of conservation through fashion.
Designer Shruti Sancheti gave a modern twist to the Swadeshi movement with her collection, titled Swadeshi which saw models walk down the ramp wearing garments (and Gandhi-style spectacles) created from fabric sourced with support from the Maharashtra Weavers Board. Checks and stripes in different colours added some pop to the line.