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Brahma in Bangkok

Updated on: 21 February,2010 02:18 PM IST  | 
Devdutt Pattanaik |

The Thai deity Than Tao Mahaprom blends characteristics of Brahma and Indra, two gods not worshipped in India

Brahma in Bangkok

The Thai deity Than Tao Mahaprom blends characteristics of Brahma and Indra, two gods not worshipped in Indiau00a0

Fifty years ago, the construction of the Erawan Hotel in Thailand was in trouble. Every stage of the construction was delayed and it seemed as if everything was going wrong. The construction workers from up country had an uncanny knack for sensing when something was wrong; they refused to work until something was done to appease the guardian spirits of the plot.

A distinguished local astrologer discovered that the foundation stone for the hotel was not laid at an auspicious time. To undo the damage, a shrine had to be constructed in honour of the land spirit. This was done and the image installed in the shrine was that of the four-faced Than Tao Mahaprom (Great God) as it was the most auspicious and would counter the oversight with the foundation stone. With the shrine in place, the rest of the construction was completed without a hitch.

Than Tao Mahaprom is believed to a god full of kindness, mercy, sympathy and impartiality. Each virtue is represented in the four faces of the image, radiating serene grace. His name for most foreign visitors was hard to remember let alone pronounce. So with time he became known as the Erawan Shrine, named after his personal vehicle, the three-headed Erawan Elephant, who served as the mount of the Buddha after his enlightenment. In time, this shrine became famous for fulfilling the wishes of people. It still is a tourist magnet.

Than Tao Mahaprom is a Hindu god known in India as Brahma. It is strange that a god not worshipped in India has such a pride of place in Thailand. Stranger still is that he rides not a swan but an elephant called Erawan, derived from Airavat, which is the mount of Indra according to the Puranas.



Hinduism or rather Brahmanism (the religion of Brahma, according to Thais), like Buddhism, reached Thailand over a 1,000 years ago when Indian merchants and artisans frequented south East Asia under the patronage of kings who ruled the Coromandel Coast such as the Cholas and the Gangas. This was before an embargo was placed on sea travel in medieval times (travel across the sea led to loss of caste) and the sea trade was handed over to Arabs, and eventually Europeans.

Hindu gods reached Thai shores as Indian merchants and artisans settled in the golden lands (Suvarna Bhumi) across the sea. Vishnu became, and still is, the god most favoured by royal families while Brahma became the favourite of the priestly class.

There was Shiva too; his phallic symbol worshipped by women seeking children. Over the centuries, Hinduism in Thailand evolved autonomously. Some ideas which lost favour in India such as temple dancers continued in Thailand. Others, like the bhakti doctrine, never found roots there. Gods mingled and merged. As a result, Brahma of Bangkok seems more like Indra of the Puranas who loves dancing girls, rides elephants, brings rain and good fortune. The two gods, forgotten in India, thrived in the personality of Than Tao Mahaprom.

Across Thailand and in parts of Cambodia, Laos and Indonesia (especially in Bali) there are temples covered with images of Hindu gods. Tales from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata are found on wall carvings and cloth painting. Rama is a favourite deity of Thai royalty. Their capital was located in a city called Ayuthia (Ayodhya) and their kings were often named Rama.

But as one hears the local Thai versions of the epics and sees the images, one realises that the Hinduism there is different more ancient, very local. It is far more violent, lacks the emotional appeal of bhakti and is far more ritualistic. It is perhaps a pre-bhakti variety of Hinduism that may have thrived around 8 to 10 AD in eastern parts of India before bhakti became a powerful force across India.

Many scholars debate whether the Hinduism of Thailand is Hinduism at all, or merely a local corrupt version. This stems from the assumption that there is an 'original' Hinduism. What is this 'original' Hinduism? Vedismu00a0 the religion of the Vedas? Brahmanismu00a0 the religion that acknowledges caste? Puranism the religion which worships Puranic gods? Bhakti which appeals to the heart in the language of the common man? No one can answer this question. Hinduism in India ranges from temple rituals to philosophical speculations; there is no one standard Hinduism.

The fact is all religions, Hindu or otherwise, change over time and space. They respond to history and geography. They also change for and with people. Brahma of Bangkok is a product of Thai history and needs. He may make little sense to the Indian Hindu but he is a spirit-god who empowers the Thai people who visit his shrine. Divinity exists in whatever form that people choose. And one must respect that.




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