Ahead of his first Mumbai pop-up, chef Manish Mehrotra says he misses Haji Ali Juice Centre's sitaphal cream
Chef Manish Mehrotra
We've heard of Indian Accent, the path-breaking contemporary Indian restaurant in New Delhi. This weekend, the man behind the restaurant, chef Manish Mehrotra, will be here to host a pop-up. "It is the first time we are doing something for the public in Mumbai; although I've done many private events before. We have so many regulars from Mumbai, who come dine with us. I am looking forward to feeding them," says Mehrotra.
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On the menu will be Indian Accent favourites — Blue Cheese Naan, Duck Khurchan Cornetto, Goat Cheese Khandvi, Meetha Achar Spare Ribs and Daulat ki Chaat with Rose Petal Chikki. There will also be items from the new menu including Paneer Ravioli and Peas Puree, Tofu Vadai and Carrot Halwa Tart.
Blue Cheese Naan
Local love
Mumbai is no stranger to Mehrotra. He studied hotel management at the Institute of Hotel Management in Dadar and started his career at Taj President. And, most of his memories of the city are related to food. "Every Sunday or holiday, we would go to this small place called Crystal near Wilson College and eat parathas loaded with Amul butter! Their bharta was delicious and, often, would be sold out by the time we went there," he reminisces.
"I lived in town, so I have a lot of haunts there; Leopold was our favourite. We would go to Swati Snacks, Mahim for kebabs and Haji Ali for the sitaphal cream, riding on our bikes. I have a version of the sitaphal cream on my Delhi menu, in fact."
Applewood Smoked Bacon Kulchas And Butter Chicken Kulchas
The food scene
These days, when he visits Mumbai, his stay is packed with culinary experiences, visiting old haunts and new restaurants. "I think I've visited every good restaurant in the city. I love The Table and Gajalee," he says, adding that this time, he wants to eat at The Korner House, LIMA and NRI. Some of his favourite dishes are Thepla and Pulled Pork at The Bombay Canteen, Boneless Chicken Wings and Zucchini Spaghetti at The Table, and Curry Leaf Squid at Pali Bhavan.
Mehrotra is happy that new restaurants are shaping the city's dining-scape, though he feels that modern Indian food is now firmly linked with molecular gastronomy. "Most people are doing the same things — spheres, liquid nitrogen or food in test tubes. I have no complaints but fusion food should have a reason behind it. At the end of the day, taste matters," he reasons. He credits the new, modern restaurants with getting the younger generation interested in Indian food.
Any plans to open a restaurant in the city? "We tried, but things didn't work out. IâÂu00c2u0080Âu00c2u0088definitely want to open an Indian Accent here," he says, adding, "Till then, I will keep returning for pop-ups."
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