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Day Three of the Lakme Fashion Week 2015

3.30 pm > Nitya Arora, Nikhil Thampi and Nimish Shah
The show began with the screening of a short (and sweet) fashion film by accessory designer Nitya Arora with her label Valliyan, followed by her show. True to her style, Arora stuck to edgy fashion jewellery in gold with each piece making a statement.

Nikhil Thampi’s line spelt Bollywood oomph. Pics/Bipin Kokate
Nikhil Thampi’s line spelt Bollywood oomph. Pics/Bipin Kokate

Palm cuffs, body harnesses and headpieces Arora sure knows what to create to turn heads. Next up was city boy Nikhil Thampi’s show that draws in the crowds, almost on cue. The designer lived up to the hype, just as we were hoping. His collection was inspired by the movies of the ’90s. And, trust Thampi to feel the pulse of red carpet fashion.

The collection started with garments inspired by the iconic yellow sari worn by Raveena Tandon in the song, Tip Tip Barsa Pani, in the film Mohra (with the song playing in the background) and progressed to the use of metallic gold adding a lot of chutzpah. We can see it becoming a hit on the red carpet soon.

After the high-adrenaline show was designer Nimish Shah with his label Shift. Shah, too, stuck to his earthy designs with breathable fabrics and jagged prints.

Laser moment
5.30 pm > Asmita Marwa, Babita Malkani, Jatin Varma
Day 3 was turning out to be the most exciting day of the season. Asmita Marwa kept the tempo high with models dancing down the ramp for her collection inspired by the streets of New York.

Jatin Varma’s designs were a runway success
Jatin Varma’s designs were a runway success

The show started with simple, structured garments in off-white and salmon pink and moved on to garments printed with a collage of street art of New York (prominently featuring Audrey Hepburn). The circles cutwork forming a pattern on the crop tops looked good. Hairstylist Adhuna Akhtar, like the models, danced down the ramp for the designer. So much spunk!

Next was Babita Malkani with Omayok, a collection inspired by ancient Alaskan art. Printed feathers prominently featured throughout the line. We loved the sari-style skirts with a drape over the shoulder in minty shades. Finally, Jatin Varma used the material of the moment — neoprene to create beautifully structured gowns accented by laser cutwork in solid colours. Varma’s line was one of the top highlights of the day.

Regalia in full flow
9.30 pm (thursday) > Raghavendra Rathore
Spectacular and sophisticated defined Raghavendra Rathore’s last show on Day 2 of Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2015.

Riteish Deshmukh looks dapper in a Nehru jacket. Pic/Satyajit Desai
Riteish Deshmukh looks dapper in a Nehru jacket. Pic/Satyajit Desai

The Jodhpur-born couturier packed in a range of designs that were presented in three capsules, featuring his different brands. These included the ready-to-wear designer label, Imperial India Company, Raghavendra Rathore Foundation, a humanitarian initiative promoting rural handicrafts and his bespoke clothing menswear label.

From smartly crafted brocade sherwanis with elbow-length sleeves, structured bundis over kurtas, five-button Jodhpur coats to Pathani suits, tuxedos and Rathore’s signature wide dhoti salwars, we loved the mix of traditional and contemporary Indian and Western styles for men.

The Indian weaves, silks, satins and cottons used, were woven in the Brahmaputra region, and added a regal touch. While the colour palette comprised of muted shades of black, creams and browns, the bandhgala jackets in gold, red, fuschia, blue and green added a burst of colour.

The limited women’s line fused ethnic designs with contemporary silhouettes. Our pick was the red and golden cover over red draped lehenga. The intricately embroidered brocade Nehru jacket worn by Riteish Deshmukh, stayed with us long after the show was over.

 

Monumental fashion
1.30 pm > Dhruv Kapoor, Ragini Ahuja, Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev
expectations were high from the label Quirkbox by designers Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev. Dhruv Kapoor of the label DRVV kicked off the show with his line, Code.

We loved this jacket with monuments from across the world
We loved this jacket with monuments from across the world

His aim was to deconstruct garments as a protest against restraints on women showing skin. And he did a great job with it. Cutouts created with zips accented his signature straight cuts and simple tailoring. Never have ripped clothes looked so much in style.

Next up was promising talent, Ragini Ahuja with her label Ikai that wowed us. every garment seemed coveted, especially the long open sheer covers with patterns on the back. Japanese elements like obis, cranes and kimono cuts served as inspiration.

The polka dots (mixed with stripes which she uses in almost all shows), dominated the collection reminded us of the work of Japanese artist Yayoyi Kusama. Leather applique added a subtle extra element to the collection. Quirkbox ended the show with the theme, Wanderlust. Known for their quirky prints, postcards from across the globe was their inspiration. It included planes and text printed on their garments.

Skirts, shorts for men, to bralets, they stuck to wearable silhouettes. Our favourite was a well-stitched jacket for men printed with monuments from around the world.


A surprise front row guest for Babita Malkani’s show was filmmaker Anurag Kashyap who arrived with daughter (centre) Aaliyah. “My daughter and Babita’s daughter (first left) are friends. Babita has done costumes for Anushka (Sharma, actress) and Niharika (Khan, designer) in Bombay Velvet. I’ve come for Aaliyah. She feels that my jeans, T-shirt and jacket look is my only costume! She is the fashionable one and is my stylist,” he told us, proudly. Pic/Satyajit Desai

Young guns
12.00 pm > Square Loop, Lovebirds, Munkee.See.Munkee.Doo., Armaan Aiman
Until now, the current crop of young designers has been doing a great job at this season’s Lakme Fashion Week. The first show on Day 3 proved us right, again. Kanika Sachdeva of the label Square Loop presented a contemporary collection of bags.

Munkee.See.Munkee.Doo. had guns on their apparel, taking a stand on violence against women
Munkee.See.Munkee.Doo. had guns on their apparel, taking a stand on violence against women

From waist pouches brought back from the ’90s to satchels that every fashion child would want, Sachdeva had the answers for every bag-related whim. A colour palette of neutral shades, the collection also included a collection of weekend bags and clutches too.

Lovebirds, the label by Amrita Khanna and Gursi Singh engaged us with clean lines and boxy silhouettes, created using cotton with a mix of other fabrics. Stripes dominated the line in white, grey, black and blue. The drop crotch white culottes were our favourite.

Surface treatment dominated Armaan Aiman’s line. A summer colour palette featuring coral, pastels, mint with a hint of metallic, flora and fauna was the main theme. Maxis, long-sleeved jackets, metallic skirts and pencil trousers, the hummingbirds flew all over this collection, which was a hit. The alligator applique looked good on sheer fabrics.

ending the show on a high note was Munkee.See. Munkee.Doo by Teresa Laisom and Utsav Pradhan. As their take on crime against women, the designers had different guns printed on the apparel. The colour palette had blues, mint and lavender. The mix of dresses, blouses, jumpsuits and skirts impressed.

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