3.30 pm > Gaurang Shah, Shruti Sancheti, Soumitra Mondal
Designer Gaurang Shah’s collection titled Kalpavriksha merged most-loved Jamdani weave with embroideries such as phulkari and chikankari. From flared salwars to ghagras, Shah played with fluidity of fabrics for each silhouette. Saxophonist Anil Kumar
created a background score for the show. Actress Vidya Balan, who took a bow with the designer, looked beautiful in a pink and gold sari.

model Indrani Dasgupta (centre), rarely spotted on Mumbai’s ramps, sports a Gaurang Shah creation. PICS/SATYAJIT DESAI
Model Indrani Dasgupta (centre), rarely spotted on Mumbai’s ramps, sports a Gaurang Shah creation. Pics/Satyajit Desai

One of our favourites for the day was designer Shruti Sancheti with her collection, Nomadistan. A play of bright summer colours such as yellow, crimson and orange, the flowing skirts and the belted saris (seen in her previous collections too) were our favourites. The blue and indigo ombre sari (and the skirt in the same combination) paired with an embroidered blouse (worn by model Parvathy Omanakuttan) was another top choice. The mix of fabrics such as khadi, eri silk, matka silk, summer silk, and organic cotton added a subtle sheen to the line. Embroideries such as beadwork and carpet embroidery added to the nomad vibe.

Shruti Sancheti’s belted saris added a touch of edginess
Shruti Sancheti’s belted saris added a touch of edginess

Kolkata-based designer Soumitra Mondal’s line, titled English Garden (the garden theme seems to be a favourite this season), presented lehengas, saris, blouses, anarkalis and sherwanis in white and dusky pinks. Khadi woven with silk, cotton silk and zari silk gave an ethereal glow to the entire line. The delicate pearl, crystal and sequin embroidery put the message across that Indian wedding/festive wear need not be ‘heavy’ all the time. Customised butterfly-shaped jewellery and brooches in gold, accented the garden theme.

Heritage high
1.30 pm > Anavila Misra, Shon Randhawa and Rahul & Shikha
Buoyed by the interest generated in the first show, we were eagerly looking forward to the second show of the day, especially of Anavila Misra As always, Misra presented a collection with each piece making a mark. Made from 100% organic fibres, the
collection spelt summer in capital letters. The colourful pallete was easy on the eyes and personified summer romance. Subtle prints and colour combinations highlighted the weaves.

Dia Mirza
Dia Mirza spelt grace and beauty in this Anavila Misra creation with applique flowers

Misra even included beautiful chappals made especially for the collection in soft pastels and beige. Some of the blouses were standalone wonders and could be worn as croptops with skirts too. To slip in a cliché, Dia Mirza looked like she had descended from the sky to stroll on the ramp in the final piece with appliqué flowers.
Shon Randhawa’s revivalist label Patine used modern silhouettes in summer shorts and shirt-dresses, accentuated with a variety of Indian thread embroideries. The popular ’70s theme continued with Randhawa’s show with relaxed caftans, bellbottoms and balloon sleeves. A collection that looked very Western subtly put embroideries such as kantha and gara in the
forefront. With Misra’s and Randhawa’s show being subtle, some spunk was added to this slot by Rahul & Shikha’s label, Vrisa. Their collection, Samarkand, had colourful thread embroidery and patchwork making it look like a modern gypsy collection. Our favourite was the achkan-style kurta worn by Nigerian model, Ugochi Latoya Igwilo. The travel bags on show tempted us to plan our next weekend trip. Real soon.

A blue romance
8 pm (wednesday) > Manish Malhotra
the vintage charm of Byculla’s sprawling home décor store, Great Eastern Home, was the off-site venue for Manish Malhotra’s show on Day 1 at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer Resort 2015. It was in contrast to the designer’s contemporary couture collection, Blue Runway, in association with WEvolve, a global initiative challenging gender-based violence. While the last season saw unimpressive craftsmanship from the designer, this line had a few interesting silhouettes including off-shoulder and halter crop tops with floor-length lehengas, jacket-sarees with neat cuts, and innovative sequined drapes.

Flowy fabrics were one of the highlights of Malhotra’s summer collection. PIC/Satyajit Desai
Flowy fabrics were one of the highlights of Malhotra’s summer collection. Pic/Satyajit Desai

The men’s line, which featured long structured shirts, was engaging as well. Dominated by shades of blue — from powder to midnight complemented by variations of yellow — the refreshing colour palette and soft, flowing fabrics were marred by garish, floral embroidered designs that mirrored the Parsi gara style. However, we liked a few designs including the muted floral motifs on breathable fabrics, and asymmetrical jackets with golden lining that could make for chic casual and office wear.


A wardrobe malfunction was well salvaged by this model’s presence of mind during one of the shows

Yes, Mrs Chief Minister

Maharashtra Chief Minister’s wife, Amruta Fadnavis
Maharashtra Chief Minister’s wife, Amruta Fadnavis was seen at Shruti Sancheti’s show

Flowing tributes
12.00 pm > Divya Sheth, Ujjawal Dubey, Mayank Anand & Shraddha Nigam
Some of the best shows at Lakmé Fashion Week are on the Indian Textile Day. The first show lived up to the expectations. Divya Sheth’s line justified the title of the show — Sultana on Safari — where models resembled princesses on vacation. Hand-spun fabrics like khadi and organic silk exuded luxe appeal, courtesy Ajrakh and Kalamkari prints, and embroideries. The silhouettes too, blended the modern with the traditional.

Ujjawal Dubey’s menswear line spelt subtle class
Ujjawal Dubey’s menswear line spelt subtle class

These included flowing kaftan-style jackets, trench (coat) anarkalis, tailcoat tunics and dhoti skirts. Sheth also included spacious pockets to slip in a tablet or one's passport. Ujjawal Dubey was back with his relaxed yet strong menswear line created using hand-woven khadi, linen net, linen satin blends and cotton linen. The subtle colour palette echoed his earlier lines, so were the silhouettes, though they were more evolved.

Divya Sheth’s collection gave khadi and organic silk a luxe touch.  PICS/SHADAB KHAN
Divya Sheth’s collection gave khadi and organic silk a luxe touch.  Pics/Shadab Khan

Our picks were the kurtas and the lightweight sherwanis for men. He threw in a few pieces for women as well. With their line, Chauraha, Mayank Anand and Shraddha Nigam gave the humble gamcha a boho, fashionable twist. The kurta-style maxi dress for women and the textile fringe detailing (seen in some of the pieces) won our vote.