Too tight or loose on the shoulders; short at the back or cuffs that don't fit — several queries need to be answered to zero in on the perfect shirt. We tell you how to pick the right one
The shirt is a complicated piece of clothing
There are various lengths that need to be kept in mind. First is the length of your collar based on what you are wearing it with. Next is the length of your sleeves. "The cuffs should be just a little below your wrist. If you are wearing a jacket, about an inch should be outside. The cuffs should also be comfortable enough to fit your watch," says Akshay Narvekar, founder, Bombay Shirt Company. As for the length of your shirt, it should be up till the middle of the fly. If it is a shirt that you need to tuck in, it needs to have a tail at the back. Raise your hands after wearing the shirt and check how much it rides up to understand if you are comfortable with the length. Too much length will make your shirt balloon at the waist, which is not just a waste of fabric but also adds to the volume on your waist.
Then come the shoulders
The seams of the shoulders of your shirt should sit perfectly well on your shoulders. A drooping shoulder will make you look hunched and will even bunch up inside a jacket or a suit.
Measure your neck
"The right way to check if your collar fits you perfectly is to put one finger between your collar and neck. If it goes in comfortably, the collar's right," says Narvekar. There are various types of collars. Deepak Parwani, co-owner of bespoke menswear store, Bo Square, tells us, "The basic four collars are the Chinese collars that you can wear with bundis, the classic small collar with four buttons, a high collar that can be worn with a tux and a regular collar." Different versions of the average collar include a wide collar, a pointy collar and a far wide collar. If your collar is limp, use collar stays, it's perfect to look sharp when at work.
The fit of the shirt defines the buy
"When it comes to deciding the fit, buy something you are comfortable in, nothing too tight," says Narvekar. Regardless of your weight, buy a shirt that fits you well, a larger size will not hide your waist. Buying a slim-fit shirt will help you get the fit right. While trying a shirt, sit down once you have buttoned up. If the shirt splits at your stomach, you need a roomier shirt. For workwear, tuck your shirt in and try moving around the trial room. If you can't move your shoulders in all directions comfortably, the armhole and the chest is tight for you. The fabric of a shirt also determines the fit, a size 42 in cotton will fit you differently compared to a 42 in linen. "The best thing to wear is 100% cotton. Linen is not as snug as cotton and is a little flow-ey. So, a 50-50 mix of cotton and linen is a good idea to get the right fight," suggests Parwani. The most important bit, we don't have a standard sizing, so, if you wear L in a brand, you might have to buy another size from a different brand. Read the size charts when buying online.
For shirts fitted to a T
After their Kala Ghoda outlet, Bombay Shirt Company has opened another outlet, this time, in Bandra. A roomy, sunny store, you will be greeted by a wall with different collar styles to pick for your custom-made shirt. On offer are as many as 1,200 different material styles, which one can pick from their swatch booklets.
Bombay Shirt Company has opened its second store in Bandra. Pics/Shadab Khan
They have an in-house stylist, for both men and women, and a master tailor, who will take your measurements, if you need some alterations done to their ready fit guide.
From buttons to imported Italian fabrics, you can get a shirt made for you from scratch
With shirts starting at Rs 1,940, you can create a customised apparel, picking the most minute details such as a monogram, leather patches or twill trimmings. With special collaborations happening every month, their current style offer is a collaboration with model Acquin Pais. Also on offer are the on-trend prints, both bold and subtle. They offer a delivery within seven to eighth days and also offer a home visit service for the lazy fashionistas.
TIME 10 am to 9 pm
AT Opposite St Theresa’s School, 24th Road, Bandra (W). CALL 8879621003
For more custom fit shirt options
log on to www.16stitches.com and www.vitruvien.com