This month three communities have reason to celebrate. The festivities will be at the maximum as Malayalis celebrate Vishu, their harvest festival, Bengalis Pohela Boishakh, their new year on April 14 and Punjabis, Baisakhi, their harvest festival on April 13. You may belong to any community but if a festival is around the corner, it's time to whip up a feast. Sunday MiD DAY speaks to the city's restaurateurs who serve authentic food about their experiences with these festiva
This month three communities have reason to celebrate. The festivities will be at the maximum as Malayalis celebrate Vishu, their harvest festival, Bengalis Pohela Boishakh, their new year on April 14 and Punjabis, Baisakhi, their harvest festival on April 13. You may belong to any community but if a festival is around the corner, it's time to whip up a feast. Sunday MiD DAY speaks to the city's restaurateurs who serve authentic food about their experiences with these festivals
A childhood of elcheri and injipuli Jomy Nainan of Kutty's
Jomy Nainan is new to the restaurant business, having opened Kutty's along with business partner Wilson John last October. Kutty's serves authentic Malayali food with a sprinkling of Tamilian and Udpi cuisine. Jomy says, "We wanted to do something different. There are so many places that serve Mughlai or Indian dishes." Thus was born Kutty's.u00a0
His business might be picking up but Jomy is as shy as they come. We have to coax and prod him to answer questions about celebrating Vishu while growing up. He finally gives in and describes his experience with the festival. Jomy says, "We have a Catholic background but the tradition of Vishu used to apply to us as well."
Since Jomy grew up in the city, his family could not celebrate the festival exactly like it's done in Kerala a few compromises had to be made.
He gives full credit to this mother, though. "She used to prepare elcheri (raw banana and yam bhaji) and injipuli (a pickle of tamarind and ginger) a day before. The next day she would get up at dawn and prepare the rest of the food." Sadya, which is a traditional Malayali meal consisting of various types of curry, rice and sweet, was prepared and served in the afternoon in the Nainan household. Jomy says that it would have been unfair for his mother to cook everything that was part of the Sadya but she did prepare 90 per cent of the dishes. The best part about the festival for Jomy was the silver coin, money and book that he received from his father as a blessing.u00a0
Jomy has not been home for the last 10 years to celebrate the festival as his job kept him at sea. But that did not wash away his plans of celebrating. "A few Malayali colleagues and I used to celebrate Vishu on the ship. We used to tell the cook what to prepare and then serve it to the others," he says.
Now that he has a place of his own, he ensures that the food tastes exactly like his mother made it. "I go down to the kitchen and make sure that the olan (Long bean and semi-raw pumpkin curry) tastes just like hers," says Jomy, sidestepping the question about any secret ingredients that have been passed down.
Kutty's is having a special menu of only Malayali food on the 14th and have already been getting bookings for the same. Space constraints, though, would not allow for a typical Sadya on a banana leaf, Jomy informs apologetically.u00a0u00a0
Jomy recommends: Aviyal, a mixture of vegetables. Wash and cut all vegetables into pieces. Grind coconut with green chilies and cumin seeds to make a paste. Boil all the vegetables until it is just done. Add some turmeric powder and salt to taste. Heat coconut oil in a pan and toss all vegetables into the pan. Add the coconut paste and beaten curd and gently toss the vegetables until they are coated with the paste and curd. Remove the pan from the heat and garnish it with fresh curry leaves.
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Last harvest of saag Prahlad Kakkar of Papa Pancho
It would not be difficult to picture Prahlad Kakkar chugging down lassi and dancing the bhangra at Baisakhi. Rest assured that is exactly what the ad man and owner of Papa Pancho, which serves Punjabi food, did. He says of the harvest festival, "It is like Thanksgiving. Everybody is grateful for the sun and relieved for all the good that has come with it. Finally all that you have been working you're a** off for is paying off." He says that Baisakhi is all about letting your hair down, buying new clothes and having the best of foods.
Prahlad comes from an army background and says that in true Punjabi style, Baisakhi was celebrated with great pomp and show. However since it was the army, there used to be a formal dance with bhangra performed alongside. He also mentions the Baisakhi melas where there is an abundance of song and dance and everybody is out to have a good time.
Prahlad says that Baisakhi called for a lavish spread of food. "There was sarson ka saag and makki ki roti. But it was the last harvest of saag (it would be out of season by Baisakhi). There were lots of sweets besan ladoos and kulfi. There was also something called khandsari where sugarcane was cut into blocks and placed in a bowl of ice. It was an appetiser of sorts." Prahlad says that Punjabis are generally not rice eaters but during Baisakhi they prepare a sweet rice dish complete with kishmish. "And then they struggle to eat it," laughs Prahlad.
At his restaurant that has now shifted from Mumbai to Kerala, Prahlad says the food on Baisakhi would be the same as usual but only richer cooked in desi ghee.
Prahlad recommends: The best dish to serve at Baisakhi is Baingan ka bharta. He says, "The best dish is good old Baingan ka bharta made on a sigdi. Mash it and cook it in desi ghee and roast it till it's reddish. Serve with a dollop of white butter."
Set in bronze Anjan Chatterjee of Oh! Calcutta
Anjan Chatterjee owner of Oh! Calcutta and his wife Suchanda wanted to blend the best of cooking from east and west Bengal, more importantly cook food that belonged to Calcutta. Says Anjan, "Bengali food is one food that is waiting to be exploited. Calcutta is a 300-year-old city with too many influences Anglo-Indian, Mughlai, Albanian. We were very passionate about marketing it." The result was their restaurant Only Fish, whose name, Anjan thinks, led to it being perceived as too niche. So he renamed it to Oh! Calcutta.
Anjan says that Pohela Boishakh, like any other new year is a time of feasting. "Bengalis are foodies. There is a saying that even before breakfast is served, Bengalis think about lunch and while having lunch they think about dinner," he jokes.
Anjan grew up in Delhi and Bengal; preparations for the New Year began a good five days in advance. He remembers that they would have new clothes every New Year and that is a ritual they carry on to this day.
"There would be a pooja and we'd get extra pocket money. My father was a disciplinarian and we had to come home by 7:30 in the evening. But he allowed us to stay out till 8:30 on New Year's."
His grandmother was at the helm of preparing the New Year feast. Anjan says, "Traditionally, Bengali women would not go to the market. The men went out and shopped. So there used to be a competition of sorts. If a dish tasted nice, my father would take credit and say that he was the one who bought the fish."
A traditional Pohela Boishakh meal is served on a thali made of bronze surrounded by vatis that hold different curries. Anjan says that it is a 14-15-course meal. "There are three kinds of bhajis, two saags a red one and one made of palak. There is shukto (biitter gourd preparation), poshto (mostly made with potatoes and poppy seeds), dhokar dalna (made from bengal gram). Then comes the non-vegetarian course. Hilsa, prawn malai curry and a mutton preparation. Chicken is optional. Then come the desserts chaler payesh (kheer), malpua and of course sondesh."
Anjan plans on serving the same meal on Pohela Boishakh at his restaurant but it will be a buffet. He keeps his grandmother's words in mind while serving his customers. "My granny told me to be true to my ingredients and to keep it simple. To not mix too many ingredients," he says.
Anjan suggests: Sondesh. "It is very important. No Bengali meal is complete without it." Blend the paneer, khoya and sugar together till smooth. Add the elaichi and let it set in a thick layer. Refrigerate this mixture till it's set and cut into desired shapes preferably square or diamond.
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