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Fiona Fernandez: A fortified idea?

Updated on: 29 August,2016 08:45 AM IST  | 
Fiona Fernandez | fiona.fernandez@mid-day.com

An MOU to protect the state’s forts spells good news; now, for putting it into practice

Fiona Fernandez: A fortified idea?

As we read the press release that reached our inbox from the state’s tourism department, a sense of deja vu took over. This time, it was the announcement of an MOU where the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) had been roped in to give Maharashtra’s impressive line-up of forts a much-needed facelift. Back in 2012, a similar project was signed between the state’s forest department and ASI to protect our forts.


Sure, it’s an ambitious plan. And long overdue. Ask any trekker, historian and environmentalist worth their salt to give you the lowdown of the condition of some of the state’s oft-frequented forts. It will read like a litany of cribs and concerns. Since the time we first set foot into a fort — the magnificent Janjira — a sea fort that stood strong in the waters of the Arabian Sea off Alibaug — our visits to the state’s citadels haven’t left us with a smile. After reading about its impregnability in our history textbooks in school to actually walking around its ruins, Janjira, as we would discover with each visit, has been reduced to a convenient offsite location for film and TV shoots, commercials and whatnot. The word neglect is written all over with litter, graffiti and crumbling walls making it a decadent eyesore.


Janjira Fort has been reduced to a location for film and TV shoots and whatnot
Janjira Fort has been reduced to a location for film and TV shoots and whatnot


Closer home, in Vasai, the Portuguese-era Bassein fort is another stunning, decadent landmark that has become the hotbed for drug peddlers and booze parties. On one such trip, we were in for a rude shock as a pothead agreed to even share a few grams to “chill” on a Sunday. Speak of unpleasant surprises in a historic space.

Sinhagad, near Pune, is another example. An open-air gig would have been less maddening; as we trudged uphill (all the way trying to avoid being run over by speeding bikers), hawkers and muck greeted us. Even the signage had been vandalised. And if we were to list out the woes of the forts at Sion and Worli, we’d run out of space.

We hear that with the MOU, the first to be signed by any tourism board with the ASI, our decrepit forts will get a fresh lease of life. Also, fort festivals and events around festivals like Diwali have also been proposed. As much as we’d like to do a virtual jig about the news, the question is — do we really need it, especially when the foundations of conserving forts — be it sensitised, expert-driven restoration, stricter visitor controls and basic amenities like clean loos — are far from being addressed?

For a state that boasts of some of the finest, most diverse examples of fort architecture, it’s a step in the right direction, albeit two decades late. We’d love to see our babus move beyond the photo-ops to ensure that Maharashtra’s forts aren’t reduced to forgotten footnotes in its rich history.

mid-day’s Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city’s sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana. Send your feedback to mailbag@mid-day.com

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