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Home > News > Opinion News > Article > Fiona Fernandez Woe Taj

Fiona Fernandez: Woe, Taj

Updated on: 23 October,2017 06:09 AM IST  |  Mumbai
Fiona Fernandez | fiona.fernandez@mid-day.com

In the eye of a storm for several reasons unrelated to its well being, the powers that be ought to immediately step in with the experts to give the Taj Mahal a 360-degree look, from restoration to tourist-control

Fiona Fernandez: Woe, Taj

That moment has stayed on forever. And dare I say, had left a sour taste in the mouth long after we had bid goodbye to one of the world's most enduring landmarks and symbols of eternal love. It's the Taj Mahal that we are referring to, if you still haven't figured.


Uncontrolled pollution, conservation hurdles, lack of tourist management, and basic civic sense in and around this structure are the same problems that remain with few or no new solutions.
Uncontrolled pollution, conservation hurdles, lack of tourist management, and basic civic sense in and around this structure are the same problems that remain with few or no new solutions.


This was well over a decade ago. It was June, and the sun was beating down in full glory across the north Indian plains. We were driving down from Delhi towards Agra, to see the Taj Mahal. For some of us in the car, it felt like a pilgrimage, as if we finally couldn't resist Emperor Shah Jahan's long standing invitation. The excitement was palpable. The wonder and awe of having seen the marble spectacle would overwhelm us, we imagined, as we counted down the moments while drawing nearer to the monument.


And then, it happened. The ultimate anticlimax, that is. As we hopped off our vehicle, we were greeted at the main gate by a pool of standing water that originated from a tap nearby. Tourists were washing their feet after having visited the Taj Mahal and a queue had wormed its way beyond the boundaries. In the far background, beyond the water tap scene, and over thousands of heads, the impressive white marbled structure was calling out to us.

Shaken by the unexpected welcome, we wrestled through a sea of tourists, and finally, entered the main site. It took our breath away. Yet, the jostling and high decibel levels, added by constant interruptions by pesky guides, continued to mar the experience. As we tiptoed over the marble floors [which was very hot, thanks to the high temperature levels], we found it hard to soak in all that we had learnt, imagined and believed in, about this architectural marvel. At each point, corner or contour, as we craned our neck to gaze at the beauty and intricacy of detail, we were either hurried by busloads of tourists, or by the shrill cry of a little child lost in the melee.

As we hurried our way through one of the grandest signatures from the Mughal period, we couldn't believe the harsh twist in what was meant to be a fairy tale visit. The monument appeared to be standing in silence, watching the jamboree unfold. It was a bittersweet chapter in our travel diaries. Not the kind we were hoping to return with but one that made us aware of the grave danger and challenges that are huge hurdles for its long-term survival.

Years later, when we visited the Bibi ka Maqbara in Aurangabad – often referred to as Emperor Aurangzeb's version of the Taj Mahal – a similar story unfolded. In fact, one of the pillars that were in need of repair was patched up with concrete! It stuck out like a sore thumb.

The Taj might still hold the top spot as India's most visited monument, but the ground reality, going by accounts from conscious travellers, reveals the same grim truth even today. Uncontrolled pollution, conservation hurdles, lack of tourist management, and basic civic sense in and around this structure are the same problems that remain with few or no new solutions. It's a national treasure; it's ours. Alas, time will actually begin to tell on it lest we ignore to protect its brilliance.

mid-day's Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city's sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana. Send your feedback to mailbag@mid-day.com

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