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Flight of food fancy

Updated on: 07 June,2010 06:57 AM IST  | 
Janaki Viswanathan |

Maya at the Trident does justice to its multi-cuisine menu, especially the dal

Flight of food fancy

Maya at the Trident does justice to its multi-cuisine menu, especially the dal

Entering The Trident at Bandra Kurla Complex makes us feel like we're about to board a flight, thanks to the "security check" tags strapped on our bags outdoors.

The largely female staff at Maya, with their smooth efficiency and crisp saris, add to the airborne feeling.

The red is what we notice first when we enter the Indian restaurant at the five-star.

It's a lovely solid red which finds itself at the seating area, napkins, wall art, set off beautifully with white and beige. The interiors are no fuss with clean and bold lines.







The menu (red, again) shows off a cuisine that's a mix of different states.

We pick one starter, a Kathal Kebab, simply because of its base: jackfruit, and sip on still water. Soon, a basket of papad and a selection of pickles are brought to the table.
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Tip: ask for the Gobi ka Achar, if you aren't served any, it's Punjabi style and delectable.

We polish it off in no time. The Kathal Kebabs (Rs 422) are steaming neat roundels stuffed with raw jackfruit. They're comfortingly crumbly, the cold green chutney a perfect match, though the portion is fairly small.

For the mains, we go south and west, paying our respects to Mangalore and Rajasthan with a Kozhi Gassi and a Rajasthani Kadhi, along with a Missi Roti and an Ajwain Parantha.

The mains arrive along with two bowls of a rich dark Dal Makhni, compliments from the chef.

The Rajasthani Kadhi (Rs 488) plays a delicious host to banana chillies stuffed with potatoes. It's light and heavy at once, gently spiced, and goes superbly with the Missi Roti.

The Kozhi Gassi (Rs 644), is a classic coconut chicken curry, though the meat's a little tough. The curry works.
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The Missi Roti (Rs 111) is light, crisp with just enough ghee while the Ajwain Parantha (Rs 111) could have been better.

But it's the Dal Makhni that we can't get over. True, it's a basic item found on the menus of most eateries, but here it's so wickedly dark, creamy and rich, the good old dal is almost sinful.

Compliments to the chef.

We're almost full but the mango specials on the dessert menu are pretty irresistible and we go for a Mango Trio. A mango ice cream, sorbet and a mango cannelloni arrive on a sparkling white platter.
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We dig in and aren't disappointed, though the cannelloni is too icy cold. Fruity sorbet and creamy ice cream finished, we're ready to call it a day.

Maya is a nice place to go, if muted, understated interiors and a professional, formal staff are what you like.
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And of course, while Maya offers you something several restaurants claim to: a multi-cuisine menu, they actually do a great job of it.u00a0
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AT: Maya, The Trident, Bandra Kurla Complex.
Call: 66727777
Maya didn't know we were there. THE GUIDE reviews and pays anonymously for its meals

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