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Get on top of the world

Updated on: 21 August,2014 08:41 AM IST  | 
Hassan M Kamal |

Mount Everest climber Basanta Singha Roy speaks of the heights scaled and the highs that come in the exciting world of mountaineering

Get on top of the world

Mount Everest

Standing majestically as a guardian of the Indian subcontinent, the Himalayas have always been an inspiration to Basanta Singha Roy. The 53-year-old mountaineer from West Bengal, who has led 21 successful expeditions including the triumphant scaling of Mount Everest (8,850m) in 2010 and a year later of the Kanchenjunga (8,586m), was recently in the city to share his experiences with aspiring and professional mountaineers.


Mount Everest
Pic courtesy/Basanta Singha Roy

How it all started
Roy’s love for mountaineering began in his late 20s, during his trips to hill stations, where he began to sense a connection with the mountains. The realisation took him to rock climbing camps, and later to sign up for the Basic and Advance Mountaineering Course at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi. Roy mastered his skills for the next two decades, leading several successful civilian expeditions. In 2010, Roy led a team of civilian climbers from Krishnagar Mountaineers’ Association to the top of the Mount Everest, followed by India’s first civilian expedition to Kanchenjunga in 2011. “I started climbing the Himalayas after the course, in the 1990s, but it took me 20 years to reach the top of Mount Everest,” recalls Roy. In 2012, he successfully led the first Indian civilian expedition to Annapurna I (8,091 m).


Indian mountaineer Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas
(L-R) Indian mountaineer Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas on top of Kanchenjunga.  PICS Courtesy/Basanta Singha Roy

When danger strikes
But not all climbs are successful. Roy and his team of mountaineers went missing during a climb to Dhaulagiri I in May 2013. The group lost all communications to the base, and had to be rescued via helicopter. “I was lying in the open air without oxygen one whole day. I was lucky that I survived. I think the years of training really helped me there,” he says. Having suffered severe frost bite in both legs, Roy had to undergo amputation of toes in both legs.


Basanta Singha Roy
Basanta Singha Roy

But this has not deterred the mountaineer, as he is all set to climb the Nun Kun peak (7,135 metre) in Zanskar Valley, in the last week of this month. “Soon after the accident, I thought of giving up, but I have decided to continue with mountaineering. I will climb as long as my body will permit,” he adds.

mountain

A banker by profession, Roy advises youngsters to start training as early as possible. “As you grow older, your strength decreases, so, it’s best to start early,” he says. So, how has he maintained his stamina at the age of 53, we wonder. Roy replies, “Everyday, I make 20 rounds of a football field; this gives me all the exercise I require. Nutrition is important to maintain stamina. So, I ensure that I eat everyday, on time.”

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