What does it take to recreate a brand already established for several years in another city? Living up to the high standards set can be a challenge. And Copper Chimney, Mumbai’s bastion of kebabs, does a great job at this. When we ordered for a Non-Vegetarian Platter (Rs 1,125) of kebabs, the staff warned us, politely, that the order would take almost 20 minutes, and we waited patiently, salivating at the Seekh Kebabs that were being prepared from the open kitchen. When our order arrived, we realised that were served a Chicken Platter instead. Our servers offered to replace it, apologising for the mistake. The manager promptly came up to our table and offered to send us a crisp Roomali Roti to satiate our hunger while our order was being prepared. The Roti arrived, and was crisp, butter-laden and served with a fresh kachumber (mixed Indian salad).
Our platter finally arrived and we started off with the Mutton Seekh. It had a lovely blend of fresh herbs and spices. The Fish Tikkas were equally good — chunky, marinated just enough to let the flavour of the fish come through and with satisfying portions. The Boti Kebabs, to our taste, were a tad under-done though quite flavourful. It’s tough to eat much beyond a platter of kebabs (or even finish the platter between two), so be warned. If you enjoy your mains, then opt for a single kebab option instead. We set the platter aisde and started with the mains.
The Bhuna Ghosht (Rs 360 plus taxes) consisted of a thick, rich gravy generously laden with pieces of succulent lamb, and made for a satisfying meal. We have had better Bhuna Ghosht but this one had the comfort of a home meal with our Naan (Rs 70).
With so much meat in the belly, we chose to go vegetarian. The Daal Maharaja (Rs 200 plus taxes), again a Copper Chimney recommendation, turned out a bit average. A creamy black daal it was but minus the flavour that comes from slow, smoky cooking. Plus, they seemed to have gone easy on the salt. Still, it complimented the Banarasi Pulao (Rs 230 plus taxes) well.
We were warned that this one would be a bit sweet and we agreed. A minimalist blend of long-grain, fragrant Basmati rice speckled with gems of carrots, peas and cottage cheese. A subtle flavour to round off that extravagant over-dose above.
The Copper Chimney dessert menu had all the regulars, from a sundae to traditional Indian kheer. We opted for their special, the Muzaffar. A thick, creamy bowl of sweetened milk and cream topped with vermicelli.
Interestingly, the vermicelli was fried and sprinkled over. It retained its crispness to give a crackle and a crunch to balance out the smoothness of the sweet cream. A little more chilled and it would have been perfect.
Copper Chimney, with their classic fine-dine ambience and caring service, makes for both occasion dinners and regular ones. The price points are not inexpensive but then, neither is quantity or quality.