'Keep it simple' seems to be the mantra working well for Achrekar's Malvan Katta, a three-year-old Dadar eatery that serves delicious, affordable fare inspired from South Konkan's kitchens, minus the frills
'Keep it simple' seems to be the mantra working well for Achrekar's Malvan Katta, a three-year-old Dadar eatery that serves delicious, affordable fare inspired from South Konkan's kitchens, minus the frills
Within minutes of walking into the 250-odd square feet space that is Malvan Katta, you realise that the owners have hit bull's eye when it comes to naming their eatery. A quick scan of the bi-lingual menu revealed a burst of authentic Malwani cuisine. No desi Chinese. Even the now-popular South Indian-Punjabi fare was missing. 
Special Stuffed Pomfret
Typical of a katta (read: parapet), regulars can be found enjoying their favourite preparations on narrow seats. Everything comes second to food at Malvan Katta. "We didn't want to make it a commercial set-up," said Amit Achrekar, second-generation owner. Even today, his mother oversees the earthy kitchen that feeds a restaurant that does brisk business. A stream of hungry souls waited patiently in the verandah, never mind the soaring humidity. Inside, the quick service ensured tables weren't occupied for too long. Grabbing the attention of harried (and occasionally confused) attendants was a task.
When we managed to, we didn't let go; the entire order was placed in one hearing. Smart choice, we realised later. Housed inside one of the older buildings of the area, Katta is washed in a bright shade of green, with a fishing net and an oar perched precariously along one section of the wall. Giant-sized flower vases, limited leg and elbow room and a temperamental air conditioner didn't seem to distract any diners from their agenda.
Amid the bustle, round one arrived -- Solkadi (Rs 15) and Bombil Fry (Rs 65). Crisply fried with little oil, in a chilli-turmeric masala coating, this snack can be walloped in record time.
We were treated to some real-time entertainment too, courtesy a young couple (table sharing is common here) oblivious to the surroundings -- their PDA interrupted only by a waiter who arrived with Mutton Sukka (with bone, Rs 105), Prawns Masala (gravy, Rs 85) with Amboli (Rs 5 each) and Chapati (Rs 2 each). The grounded spices hooked on to the meat rather nicely while the light prawn gravy, which was cooked with cubed potatoes and laced with coconut, kept us grinning at our luck.
Finally, the pi ce de r ufffdsistance -- the Special Stuffed Pomfret (Rs 200). Giant-sized, it came stuffed with a green and red masala combination, tava-fried delicately to ensure the juices stayed intact. We were in seafood heaven (apologies to Nemo). As we weeded our way through the humongous white pomfret, we heard a collective, disappointed sigh from an adjoining table. The staff informed them that no more orders for the Special Stuffed Pomfret would be taken; they had run out of fresh catch. And it was only 9 pm.u00a0u00a0
Malvan Katta
Food: excellent
Service: functional
Ambience: quick
At Janaki Niwas, DL Vaidya Path, behind Sena Bhavan, Dadar (W). Call 32175923.
Malvan Katta didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.
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