Despite gloss over, their creators continue to labour to ensure their original taste is maintained. Here's saluting the indigenous biscuit culture of Mumbai. What will you have with your next cuppa?
Baked goods perfected over generations, quietly manufactured inside buildings over a hundred years old, have been key in defining Mumbai's quaint food heritage. Unfortunately, in the glitz of mawa cakes and bun maska, the humble biskoots, some of them with a story as old as the buildings they are made in, haven't got their due. Despite the gloss over, their creators continue to labour to ensure their original taste is maintained. Here's saluting the city's best biscuit-makers, and their creations.
Almond Macaroons
At: Paris Bakery, Dhobi Talao
For: Rs 70 for pack of 30
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Danesh Nejadkay of Paris Bakery, Dhobi Talao, lures us with a box of almond macaroons. Pic/Atul Kamble
Like most bakeries in Dhobi Talao, Paris Bakery traces its origin to "easily about a 100 years". There is nothing Parisian about the counter-fringed store that fronts the bakery. Parsi, yes, evident from the picture of Zoroaster that hangs on a wall; two winged lamasus guarding the door leading to the baking area.
"Before my father took over the shop in 1963, it was owned by Irani merchants. Before that it used to be a Parsi restaurant called Cooper. We figured one of them must have made a trip to Paris, and named the shop after the city. There are no French breads made here, though," says the chatty Danesh Nejadkay, who took over the reigns in the 80s when he was a young man in his 20s. The almond macaroons we have paid a visit for are made occasionally due to escalating cost of dry fruit.
Rough around the edges, a shade softer at the centre, they are moon-faced tea-time delights. "I figured that with so many bakeries around, selling bread alone wouldn't work. So, I started experimenting. The macaroons are a result of trial and error. They are fairly popular," he says.
Coconut Jam Biscuits
At: Kyani & Co., Dhobi Talao
For: Rs 150 per kg
Farokh Shokri of Kyani & Co. Pics/Atul Kamble
Although they sit a five-minute walk away from each other, Farokh Shokri is nothing like the vivacious Danesh of Paris. Soft-spoken, he quietly mans Kyani & Co., the south Mumbai Irani institution. The coconut jam biscuits that we have our eyes on have been made here since the 70s, back when he "was young, running around my father's feet, trying to understand the show," Farokh recalls.
How famous are they? JRD Tata would send his driver over to buy them in bulk. The recipe most probably has roots in Goa. "Many a Goan ship worker, who'd come to Mumbai on their annual break, worked here as part-time baker. We continue to follow the recipe," he adds. The crispy coconut bits offset by the dollop of jam in a hollow centre, makes it a divine chai companion. Just as we are leaving, he points to a portrait that hangs on a wall. "It's my late father, Aflatoon Shokry. The portrait was drawn by MF Husain during one of his many tea time visits here," he says matter-of-factly.
Dotivala's Batasa
At: Faredoon and Burjor, Princess Street
For: Rs 272 for 1 kg
The batasas are stored in these tins of yore
This one's not a bakery, but Faredoon and Burjor, sitting diagonally opposite the famous Zoroastrian place of workship, Wadiaji Atashbehram, have "always specialised in all Parsi items," says Soonoo Netarwala, whose grandfather opened the shop 100 years ago. While it's a go-to for traditional community items such as African and Malabari sandalwood and sudrehs, the snacks, too, were a part of their repertoire.
But with time, demand has dwindled. "The Parsis are dwindling too," she laughs. "These batasas from Surat's famed Dotivala brand are buttery, salty and a popular chai snack."
Oat and Raisin Biscuits
At: Yazdani Restaurant and Bakery, Horniman Circle
For: Rs 100 for 250 gms
Yazdani's architecture makes it a stand-out in a congested lane. Pics/Atul KamBle
The century-old Yazdani might be known best for its multigrain loaves and twisted khari, but it's their crispy oat and raisin biscuits that continue to have a loyal following. Strangely enough, the recipe finds its origin in a book, that was "not even a cookbook", says Zyros Zend, co-partner.
"I was in Mahabaleshwar on a holiday, staying at a Parsi lodge. I don't even remember what the book was, but I remember stumbling upon a picture of the biscuit, and randomly thought why not try making something similar. I tried it out when I came back and the results were satisfactory and that's how it got incorporated in the menu. This was around the late 90s." It's the wood-fire oven that makes all the difference to his baked goods, Zyros adds.
"We don't commercialise, we don't publicise, we never go for the kill. Just like the old phone sets and chipped walls, grumpy bosses on the counter, too, are just as much a part of the Irani café heritage," he says with a chuckle.
Wine Biscuits
At: Warden Bakery, Grant Road
For: Rs 70 for 200 gms
MalikâÂu00c2u0080Âu00c2u0088Attawala. Pic/Suresh Karkera
It takes over an hour for owner Malik Attawala to prepare the wine biscuits every morning. The preparation is elaborate, but Attawala doesn't mind the effort because the biscuits are hot-sellers. The bakery, located on a milling street at Nana Chowk, has been churning out cakes and biscuits since 1979.
The pista-badam, chocolate walnut and cashew biscuit varieties are popular too. "Earlier, our customers were mainly Parsis. Now we are patronised by the Gujaratis," says the 32-year-old. "My father, Nasruddin, dug into family recipes because my grandfather would make them at home."
Osmania Biscuits
At: Karachi Bakery, Bandra
For: Rs 140 for 400 gms
Karachi Bakery. Pics/Atul Kamble
Sitting on the busy Linking Road is Karachi Bakery. A recent entrant into the city bakery scene, Karachi Bakery was set up in 1953 in Hyderabad by a Sindhi gentleman called Vijay Ramnani, making it the only city bakery with roots across the border. Vijay's grandfather used to work in a bakery in Pakistan, which is where the recipes originate from.
The top draws of Karachi Bakery are the fruit biscuit and the Osmania. "All the recipes date back to late 40s-early 50s. We sell around 55 varieties across Mumbai, Hyderabad and Dubai," says store in-charge Rahul Sadnani.
Coconut Macaroons
At: Byculla Bakery, Byculla
For: Rs 7 for a single piece
Besides the macaroons, the pudding, too, is popular. Pics/ShadabâÂu00c2u0080Âu00c2u0088Khan
We arrive at Byculla Bakery one evening when the Irani café sees maximum business. "I'm sorry, but you'll have to wait. Have some coconut macaroons till then," says owner Darius (last name withheld on request), offering us a seat at the colonial café with high ceilings. We realise that the coconut macaroons are a go-to snack for those on-the-go. With a crisp exterior and a soft and chewy texture., the macaroons go back to the time of his father who arrived from Iran in 1910.
"After working at small shops, he started this Irani café," says the 83-year-old. The glass jars are filled with til rawa biscuits, nankhatais and butter kharis. "It's hard to pick a bestseller. All sell equally well," he smiles like an indulgent mother unable to pick a favourite among her kids.
Pista Biscuits
At: Crown Bakery, Mahim
For: Rs 220 for a 1 kg
Crown Bakery has been a go-to since inception. Pic/Atul Kamble
Eetablished in 1954 by Khodaram Golabi and later taken over by his grandson, Rohinton Khosravi and his elder brother, Crown Bakery has been a go-to for baked goodies since inception.
The pistachio biscuits are hot sellers for 25 years. They are crispy, heavy and flavourful, sprinkled with pistachio bits. Aslam, a baker here for 20 years says, "It's the vanilla essence that makes it special."
Eggless Nankhatai
At: Lalit Bakery, Kandivli (W)
For: Rs 65 for 250 gms
Aniket Lokhande. Pics/SnehaâÂu00c2u0080Âu00c2u0088Kharabe
Last year, when Mira Road businessman Prabhat Lokhande took over Lalit Bakery, he realised the 'vegetarian' nankhatai biscuits were more in demand than other varieties. While Lokhande and his son Aniket supply bread to other bakeries from their Goregaon factory, the biscuits are made right at the shop. Interestingly, the recipe for the eggless nankhatai was shared by a Bihari worker named Akhtar Ali, who was employed when the bakery was set up in 2005.
"Ali went back to his village because age wouldn't permit him to put in long hours. But, we retained the recipe, because it's so delicious and our patrons love it," says Aniket, 22. The other variety to try is nachni flavoured biscuit. "Here, we replace cornflour with ragi. It's healthy because of the fibre content." For those, who don't mind piling on calories, the Lokhandes have 21 more flavours ranging from chocolate chip to coconut and butter. "We make sure nobody feels left out," smiles Aniket.
Shrewsbury
At: Sethna Bakery, Jogeshwari
For: Rs 70 for 250 gms
Being the only one in its genre in Jogeshwari, Sethna bakery enjoys a loyal patronage. In fact, they don't mind standing and grabbing a snack. "All the breads and biscuits are baked in-house," says owner Bemad Irani. We ask for a paper plate of their famous Shrewsbury biscuits. The light-golden hued circles are crisp and deliciously buttery.
Shrewsbury biscuits. Pic/Sneha Kharabe
"The cashew biscuits and Shrewsbury are the oldest items on our menu. Their recipe was created by my grandfather when he set up shop in 1954," says Irani. He makes enough everyday to fill the jars on the galla (billing counter). "We don't export or supply elsewhere. Producing in excess sullies their quality."
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