What to order at the new crop of green warrior grub houses that have sprung up
Vegetarians can finally have their day in the sun. Mumbai has a fresh list of all-veg eateries that are high on presentation and taste. The past three months have seen chefs don green hats and whip up exclusive menus to woo herbivores. Coming up is Pravaas, with its Gujarati thali and daru, while rooftop eatery Tre opened at Raghuvanshi Mills last week. While we will come to those, start your green trail here.
Haleem fondue
Vortex South, near Gol Masjid, Marine Lines
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Replacing Miami last month, Vortex South is done up in red and black. Chef Xavier Rosario suggests we try his Haleem (Rs 495), served as a fondue with bread, cucumber slices, cheese naan and crispy puri. A mix of dals replaces minced meat, and paste thickened with cheese and herbs. We love the cheese -dal combo but are turned off by the overdose of grease.
Palak Patta Chat
Veranda 11. Janmabhoomi Marg, Fort
Gujaratis are highly creative when it comes to food, and the Palak Patta chat (Rs 245) with sweet potatoes is a must try. Spinach leaves fried in gram-flour batter serves as your puri. The chat is a sweet potato mash with tangy tamarind chutney, garnished with pomegranate, sev and dahi (which has a touch of pepper).
Watermelon Sashimi
TAG Gourmart Kitchen by Ranveer Brar, Kamala Mills
Art for the soul meets art for the palate at Brar’s first restaurant, which launched in December. The Watermelon Sashimi (Rs 275) looks like tuna, but is the fruit cooked for 75 minutes at 75ºC in sous vide, with a reduction of ginger marine and white soya sauce. It holds a creamy guacamole made of yam and is garnished with lemon ginger ice. When we cut through it, it flakes like tuna, with Brar having paid attention to texture.
Sushi Burger
1 Above, Trade House, Kamala Mills
When chef Prasad Parab was creating the menu for this sky garden eatery that serves hookah, he turned vegetarian for three months focusing on a tip a Michelin chef once gave him: Think of the notes you can create on a palate, how three to four flavours can blend into a beautiful melody.
The Sushi Burger, a crunchy Manchurian patty sits on a sturdy ‘bun’ made of rice, and is drizzled with teriyaki sauce. You can lift it like a burger and bite in. We’ll also recommend his Keema Pav (Rs 425) which is made with soya, but tastes like mutton.
Don’t believe us? Go try it!
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