Worli Village's ever-changing food scene now goes the French way with Slink & Bardot set to open tomorrow
The interiors are essentially French, not overwhelmingly so. Pic/Sneha Kharabe
We think French, and we think elegant, intricate but also, a space that comes with its own book of rules and requires you to tread cautiously. It's the latter half of the perception that Nick Harrison and Chef Alexis Gielbaum wanted to break with their cosy French nook, off Worli sea-face, mysteriously titled Slink & Bardot.
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Under the mentorship and in partnership with acclaimed restaurateur Riyaaz Amlani, Harrison and Gielbaum have created a space that they hope appeals to both, connoisseurs of the French dining experience as well as those who are looking to savour something new. Right from the narrow chequered-tiled passage leading up to the main entrance, to the space itself, with dim lights, soothing grey tones and a light jazz background score, Slink & Bardot could well be a chip off the Parisian restaurant scene - essentially French, but not overwhelmingly so. "No Eiffel Tower on the walls!" Harrison guffaws. The Canadian resident, who moved to Mumbai two years ago, completed an intermediate training in French cuisine from Le Cordon Bleau, Paris.
Steak Tartare
The sprawling 120-seater is divided into a lounge and a restaurant. Parisian chef Gielbaum and Harrison have meticulously put together an extensive food and drinks menu, and it may take a while to sink your teeth into it. It's interestingly categorised according to how classic, modern and experimental they've got with the dish. Some heads that catch our eye are the "picnic" - essentially what would go into a picnic basket, the rustic, the classic and the contemporary. In the drinks, we have the "light and fruity" and the "dark and broody". There's also an "after dinner" category of sweeter, digestive blends, staying true to the French style of dining. Besides these, they have 48 varieties of wines, right from France, Germany and Chile to homegrown varieties from the Nashik valley.
36-Hour Belgian Pork Belly
Harrison and Gielbaum guide us through this gastronomic maze. Harrison suggests we try the Poached Pear Daiquiri, a rum-based cocktail that's a nod to the classic French dessert. Thick and pulpy, the flavour is just right to whet the appetite. Gielbaum brings in the Chicken Liver Parfait (Rs 280), artistically plated on a black stone slab. It's served with carrot and apricot chutney and cocoa nib jam on the side, along with a plate of thinly sliced crostinis. Mildly flavoured but rich in taste, the parfait is smooth and light on the palate. The restaurant follows the small-plate format and Harrison tells us why. "Indian dining habits are very different from the West. Here, it is largely driven by sharing while in the West, it's each to his own. Keeping this in mind, we have kept it to small plates. The idea is not to fill you up with one dish, and invite you to try out at least three to four at a time."
So that's what we did.
Gratin Dauphinois
Next up was the Citrus Cured Gravlax (Rs 340) from the contemporary section. Cured fish is a concept most diners may not have experienced. However, you do warm up to it. Topped with dill dust, the chunk of rawas has mild lemon and turmeric flavours. "It's originally a Nordic specialty, served with Salmon. Rawas is known as the Indian Salmon," chef Gielbaum smiles. Cured to perfection, on the saltier side, the fish is tender and we douse it with a classic French sauce typical of Provence. You do feel the raw-fish texture but the sauce adds the right amount of zing to balance it. The 36-hour Belgian Pork Belly (Rs 340), as the name suggests, took those many hours to make it to your plate. Flavoured with French herbs and sage, served with a dollop of sweet potato mash on the side, the sous-vide meat is tender, although slightly fibrous as you cut in. The flavour, however, justifies the time.
Jamaican Me Crazy
We turn to the classic French bites with the Steak Tartare (Rs 310) that comes with a mustard ice-cream. The seasoning of the meat is balanced, you get the sour notes from the olives, capers and Tabasco. The mustard ice cream, however, requires some getting used to.
There are ample options for vegetarians too. We try another pure classic - Gratin Dauphinois - made with potato, brie, garlic cream with a green apple salad. Served in a pot, this could well be the most homey dish on the menu. "Just dig in straight into the pot!" Harrison says.
Paris Brest
To sign off, we go for the most Parisian of all sweet endings, the Paris Brest - choux pastry with praline mousse, and rum ice cream. The sweetness is ample but not overbearing and we particularly like the microwave pistachio sponges that pepper it.
Chef Alexis Gielbaum and Nick Harrison
"We want to be French but, we want it to be a casual dining experience. Even our stewards will have their sleeves rolled up. The idea is for you to have fun with the food, not be intimidated with the novelty," Harrison tells us. While that maybe a tough balance to strike, Slink & Bardot seems to have got it right. Speaking of the name, we want to know more. "Oh I am not giving that out, just yet," he laughs. We'll keep guessing then.
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