Nico is where the heart is
The newest entrant in Kala Ghoda serves European cuisine and looks set, to up the ante of gourmet food in the city to another level
The Town. There is a reason why South Bombay earned that appellate. As we got wind of a restaurant opening up in the Kala Ghoda precinct, little did we know that, with almost a Parisian façade (think, looming arched windows), this eatery would act like a wormhole transporting us, to a bygone era of the Fort locality. Though, don’t mistake Nico Bombay for a vintage-y place. The bare cemented walls, open kitchen with a rumbling wood-fired oven contours the restaurant in a modern syntax.
Snugly seating ourselves in lightweight suede chairs, the one-page menu was handed to us by a cordial manager. As we made up our minds, we were parched for choice when it came to water, for Mulshi was the only option at a pinching price of Rs 150.
In a languid mood, we asked the manager for recommendations -- Goat Cheese, Caramelised Onion and Sour Cream Puff was pitched to us (Rs 325). With the partner decidedly eyeing a lion’s share of Beef Fillet with Pomme Puree, we plumbed for aCiro Pizza (Rs 600).
The puffs are inviting, a brilliant coloured composition and a quick-to- arrive bite. Feeling our way through linen napkins, the three-pieced starter was a crackling bite of intense goat cheese counterbalanced with tomato sauce. After admiring the Art Deco cylindrical chandeliers and table lamps that brought back childhood memories, the pizza took no time in becoming a chewing relish. The chicken salami, however, was salty beyond endurance. Despite the delicious burrata cheese we ditched the pizza after a slice itself.
Coming to the beef is like us between mouthfuls where we refuse to open our mouths. For the boast, it was cooked for 48 hours, and was totally worth the anticipation. The ravenous appetite of the partner was not sated and could be a grouse for the hunger-gamed. The love of our licks was Amoretti White Chocolate Cheese Cake with Pomegranate Jam (Rs 450). The chocolate’s blend with the pomegranate jam evoked such euphoria that the salt-water punch was instantaneously rinsed. Walk and wallow in a place that finally fits with the glamour of the sepia-tinted lanes, which also justifies glamour of gourmet.
At: 105, Apollo Street, Bombay Samachar Marg.
Nico Bombay didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.