Not 'Very Special'

Few Mulund residents might not have dined at the three Vishwa restaurants — Vishwa Mahal (which recently shut down to make way for McDonald’s), Vishwa Bharati and Vishwa Samrat.

Vegetables in Black Bean sauce could have been better

So, when one of these recently reopened as VS, posing itself as a fine dining destination, we were keen to check out the new avatar. Its interiors hadn’t changed much, nor did the food as we discovered later. When we asked our attendant about the revamped menu, we were informed that only a few dishes were available and an Italian food festival, would be held later, that would usher in the menu entirely. We asked for a Spicy Strawberry (Rs 140) mocktail and a VS Special (Rs 230) cocktail. For starters, the Vegetables in Black Bean Sauce (Rs 260) and a Chicken Banjara Kebab (Rs 290) were ordered. With so many food shows on TV today, most know the importance of well-plated dishes, and that’s how VS got its first cross on the report card.

The Spicy Strawberry worked well with its mixture of sweet and spice and was served in a glass. The special cocktail wasn’t too potent but a palatable concoction of different spirits, which was decorated with a drab maraschino cherry. The vegetarian starter got off to a good start with corn, bell peppers, cauliflower (we expected broccoli, at least, at a fine dining) and mushrooms stir-cooked in a mild spicy black bean sauce. The vegetables weren’t stirred well and some portions were salty.

The Chicken Banjara Kebab satisfied us with its chunks of meat boasting of mild, garlic-infused flavours.

Hoping for better luck with the mains — Veg Au-Gratin (Rs 290) and Chicken Kranti (Rs 330) with Cheese Onion Kulcha (Rs 100) were ordered. Now, the Au-Gratin was a dish that was insipid in its earlier version and remained the same. The chicken gravy and kulcha tasted strictly okay.

Fashion designer Manish Malhotra once told us that couture is the most abused word in fashion, ditto goes for fine dining in the world of food.

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