From a heady glider ride with Dr Mazda to a headier toddy-sipping session in a Warli hamlet and saner, chickoo-picking trails,Dahanu is a delightful getaway waiting to be re-discovered
From a heady glider ride with Dr Mazda to a headier toddy-sipping session in a Warli hamlet and saner, chickoo-picking trails, Dahanu is a delightful getaway waiting to be re-discovered
Typically, the traveller enters a time warp while approaching unknown territory. Some places will tempt you to switch gears to fast forward mode while others will coax you to slip into slow motion. When we reached Dahanu at 9 am, after a 90-minute train ride from Virar via the shuttle, we were handed the remote control to make that choice. 
Pic/Nimaesh Dev
Our hosts were a group of passionate Dahanu residents, under the umbrella of the Discover Dahanu Project. Shaking ourselves out of our indolence, we trip-hopped across the coastal town to encounter several delightful finds.
Chill pill from Dahanu's doctor
Dr Behramshah Mazda's reputation precedes him. We had heard of the General Practitioner being one Dahanu's best, but what makes him a local celebrity is that every weekend, this doctor transforms into an aviator. The flying doctor owns an ultra-light glider that gives a whole new definition to the idea of armchair travel.
The genial doc agreed to give us a joyride, and met us on the beach, opposite Pearline Resort. After assembling the glider, he strapped me into a contraption, big enough to hold two. It resembles a tricycle fitted with a hang-glider's wings and a motor. "No singing, no screaming, no panicking," he warned as we taxied over the beach and took off in one smooth motion. There are two things you might do at this juncture -- open your eyes so wide that your eyeballs might pop out, or shut them tight.
We suggest the former, for the escalation will give you a view of the green toy-town, not many are privy to. I felt self-assured, enough to stretch out my hands on both sides (think: Titanic). The good doc rattled off notes about his flying adventures as we glided over water and land. During our descent near the beach strip, the sinking sun provided the picture-perfect backdrop.
Life is a beach
For those who prefer a slice of soul tripping, Dahanu's beach, which is thankfully shorn of litter or maddening crowds, offers uninterrupted peace of mind. If you aren't too fond of having the sun beat down upon you, we suggest you bring along your picnic basket and park yourself by the beach at nightfall, as the Arabian Sea's waters kiss the shoreline. 
In fact, if you walk a kilometre or two up north, you will be rewarded with unparalleled solitude. However, on weekends, be forewarned, busloads of tourists from Mumbai and Pune are usually found at every open space along the beach. No Goa-inspired shacks here but you can soak in the solitude, particularly at sundown. It's quite safe as well though we suggest you avoid swimming and stick to beach walking, instead.
Spooning from the chickoo bowl
I have never been a fan of this brown, mushy fruit but I had been instructed to return with a carton of chickoos. Dahanu's economy rests principally on the cultivation of this fruit. Here, most tribals earn their livelihood through daily-wage labour at the wadis, mostly owned by Irani families. Farzan Mazda, the co-convener of Dahanu Intach (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) and the elder son of the flying doc, bundled us up in his car and drove us along the Irani Road that took us from clusters of two-storied buildings, to a green belt leading up to Nargis Aunty's 16-acre orchard.
The feisty septuagenarian led us through her orchards, lamenting the meagre produce of the fruit this season. This grandmother-of-three had us glued to her accounts of this decades-long battle to protect Dahanu's fragile eco-system. She was among the most vociferous voices against the Rs 1,400-crore now-Ambani-owned thermal power plant at Dahanu.
It's largely due to her crusade that the area is now termed as 'ecologically fragile'. In fact, she will gladly share the many letters she shot off to different Union Cabinet Ministers. Amidst narratives of these struggles, she tempts us to pluck a chickoo a two off her trees, as souveniers.
Our second rendezvous with the fruit surfaced later that evening, when Amit, another Discover Dahanu member and chickoo trader took us to a chickoo auction. "I was born in Dahanu, grew up in Dahanu and if I am fortunate, will die in Dahanu" -- he declares, looking more tourist than trader.
Every evening, chickoo farmers arrive at this indoor market with bundles of the day's produce. Traders move from one spread to another, calling out their bids, not in a crude, raucous manner, but with a dignity and order that was impressive for the first-time visitor. Amit, who enjoys his travels and solitude, let us into his godown, where we came face to face with piles of the fruit being sorted into various categories for dispatch to all corners of India.
Of rice pastes and toddy tales
Hareshwar Nathu Vanaga does not mince words to appeal to an urban sensibility. Drinking at weddings, often frowned upon by certain communities, is a ritual at Warli weddings. The indigenous tribe's customs find reflection in their Warli art. Palli, who owns Pearline with her husband Ronnie, had the fifty-something Vanaga come down to the resort with his art to explain why we see their distinct art figures indulged in menial work. "We are a hard-working community and most of us work on farms," says Vanaga in chaste Marathi.
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"But we also love our celebrations and toddy." People dancing in circular formations, the snake on the field, their deities, even a man holding another man's hand -- every aspect of their lives finds an echo using a basic graphic vocabulary of a circle, triangle and square in a white pigment made from rice paste and water with gum.
Phiroza Tafti, convener of the Dahanu chapter of Intach, took us to a remote guild of Warli artists who have pooled in their resources to erect a house meant for artists. You can enter these households, look around and share a meal -- these tribals may have small homes but large hearts.
How to leaf through
Sawe Farm is a lush green 35-acre farm on a land that was once barren. Strike up a conversation with any of the owner members who are only too happy to chauffeur you around this vast property.
You will spot labelled plant species, a cacti garden, a manmade fishing pond, a garden of medicinal herbs and plants (you are allowed to pluck a leaf or two and taste it); we tasted menthol and stevia leaves, which is a natural sweetener. Try your hand at de-husking a coconut, or tuck in a meal of farm-fresh veggies while you are at Sawe.
Whileu00a0At Dahanu...
>> Wind through sixteen temples that dot the two-km stretch of Dahanu Gaon. There's a tribal temple with three stone idols situated in the middle of forests, giving you the much-needed peace of mind.
>> Strap on your hiking shoes
and trek to the top of nearby mountains like Mahalaxmi, Gambhirgad and Asherighad, or the Bahrot hills, where Buddhist monks built caves. These are the same caves where Parsis took shelter, over six hundred years ago, when they fled from Arab invaders to reach Dahanu.
>> Indulge in a wholesome meal at the Jain Mandir, located at a vantage point on top of a hill.
>> Request the Discover Dahanu organisers to arrange for a live demo of toddy tapping, and enjoy your tipple with the Warlis.
>> Arrange for a professional potter from the potters' guild at Santoshi to share tricks of the trade.
>> Drive past the Masoli hamlet, a hub for hand made cane furniture and baskets.
How to reach
By Train: Dahanu is located 65 km north of Virar on the Western Railway line of Mumbai Suburban Railway. There are many shuttle trains towards Dahanu Road throughout the day. We suggest you get a first-class ticket for a comfortable journey
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By road: Take NH8 to Kasa (Chatoti Naka) via Shirsad and Manor. At Charoti, turn left to the Dahanu State Highway. Dahanu is 24 kms, via Karoda.
About Discover Dahanu
Last month, a group of people who are passionate about Dahanu and its treasures decided to invite people to explore the region. They organised Discover Dahanu, a two-day fest that was packed with activities like a Treasure Hunt, a nature trail and a campfire on the beach.
After Mid-Day featured this fest, we connected with them to take the initiative forward and organise day or weekend trips for jaded urban dwellers, like us. What ensued was this super trip, packed with freewheeling activities, tailor-made to our preferences and schedule.
To fix a trip to Dahanu, call Phiroza Tafti (09822778207) or Amit Agarwal (9822872499).
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