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Restaurant Review: Why this new pub in Andheri needs to rework its menu

Though pocket-friendly, Andheri's new watering hole has miles to go to keep the promises made on the menu

Soda Water
Food: Average
Service: Slow
Ambiance: Groovy

Pani Puri Mojito. Pics/Satej Shinde

We dreamt of Berry Pulao and Parsiana cocktails when we heard of Soda Water, a new pub in place of Apicius in Andheri. Anyone would, considering the name resembles AD Singh’s SodaBottle-OpenerWala. However, the similarities end with the initials.

The island bar is well-stocked
The island bar is well-stocked

Blaring dance music greeted us as we stepped into the roomy watering hole on the eighth floor of a nondescript building, bang opposite Bora Bora. The dimly-lit, minimally furnished space featured wooden benches and a well-stocked bar right at the centre. Besides a bunch of selfie-obsessed college kids, the space was empty on a weeknight.

Prawns Peri Peri
Prawns Peri Peri

From the drinks menu, which offers some quirky concoctions, we picked Pani Puri Mojito (Rs 349) and Very Berry (Rs 349). Spiked with rum, tangy pani puri water and a strong dose of chaat masala, the mojito was refreshing. Meanwhile, the whiskey-based Very Berry was disappointing, as it tasted more like a cough syrup than cranberry juice and blackberry crush.

It’s peri-licious
The eats menu offers appetisers, pizzas, pastas, sliders, grilled fare and even Pav Walla Items like Kheema and Anda Bhurji. Steering clear of fusion options like Firangi Vada Pav and Chicken Tikka Pizza, we ordered Prawns Peri Peri (Rs 295) and Messy Mexican Tacos (Rs 225). The succulent, marinated prawns were doused with a tangy-sweet ginger-orange sauce, which took the dish to the next level. However, the mini taco shells, hidden under a pile of cabbage shreds and sour cream, lacked sufficient veggie and bean stuffing. Much to our chagrin, both the dishes appeared in aluminum boxlike plates, once seen as prison cutlery, now a passé at most city bars.

Slider stories
Next, we ordered Herbivore Sliders (Rs 285), an assorted variety of Grilled Veg, Mexican and Aloo Tikki mini burgers, accompanied by French Fries. While the buns were a tad chewy, our pick was the Mexican slider that packed in a tasty bean patty. The crispy and non-greasy fries salvaged the dish.

From the mains, we opted for Pollo Sopresa (Rs 375), which appeared on our table after a half an hour wait. With portions sufficient for two, the dish featured grilled herbed chicken with mushroom sauce, sautéed veggies, fries and rice. Though the meat was tender, the sauce was seasoned with too much salt. Incomplete, the dish went back to the kitchen as we dashed out of the building to be greeted by crowd cheers, loud music and a Mercedes convertible parked right outside Bora Bora. Did we hear the soda fizz out just after being popped open?

Timings: 5.30 pm to 1 am
At: Eighth floor, Blue Wave building, off Link Road, Andheri (W).
Call: 26734337

Soda Water didn’t know we were there. the guide reviews anonymously and pays for its meals.

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