South Mumbai’s ode to Henry IV

History says that French monarch, King Henry IV loved to party. South Mumbai's new club-lounge aims to recreate his Panache. The Guide decided to check whether it lived up to its promise

History says that French monarch, King Henry IV loved to party. South Mumbai's new club-lounge aims to recreate his Panache. The Guide decided to check whether it lived up to its promise

Unadulterated joie de vivre and 56 mistresses were just some of the reasons why France's Calvinist King Henry IV earned the nickname "vert-galant" or the gay-spark.

Lamb Shank. Pic/Atul Kamble

Whether the much-adored first Bourbon King of France was patronising the arts or leading his troupes into battle, he pulled it off in his inimitable style. Such that since he wore a white feather on his helmet during battle, his war cry, "Ralliez-vous mon panache blanc," (Follow my white feather) made the word, "Panache" synonymous with flair and pizzazz.

It's this style that South Mumbai's new club-lounge intends to borrow, and with proprietors stopping by to check on guests, and sending over complimentary drinks, Panache Lounge is on the right track. We appreciated the captain's honest advice on our orders. We enjoyed his recommendation, the Panache Martini (Rs 600), but with kaffir lime leaves and a blend of Indian spices, the richly flavoured cocktail, may not be everyone's cup of tea.u00a0

On the other hand, with a generous sprinkle of fresh Parmesan cheese, the Arugula Salad (Rs 180) will go down well with most folk. A bit heavy on the salt, the Cajun Chicken (Rs 225) isn't the South-American recipe you might expect; served on skewers it has an almost-Southeast-Asian touch. The Chilli Lime Shrimps (Rs 500) were lightly-fried tiger prawns, and while the batter lacked salt, the divine apricot sauce accompaniment concealed the deficiency, entirely.

The menu is extensive and includes a variety of appealing risottos. However, it was the Lamb Shank (Rs 450) that emerged as the star of the day. Well done, it is actually worthwhile to drop by just to sample this. Tender and incredibly succulent, this medium-to-well-done piece of meat was perfectly seasoned and fell right off the bone. Fluffy, yet incredibly light, even the accompanying mash impressed.

We were served a complimentary Belgian Chocolate Cake because the proprietor insisted we sample this dessert; it was extremely rich but the subtle sweetness complimented the intense chocolate flavour nicely.
The service was good, overall, but we noticed that a lone member on the floor was qualified to take orders and this, we imagine, could spell trouble on crowded nights. Then again, with limited tables, a separate level for those who'd rather groove than gobble, and prices that might not tempt the average Joe, it is unlikely that the lounge area will ever be overcrowded. To attract the corporate clique at lunch hour, the proprietors plan to introduce special meal-plans and buffets, shortly.

At Ground floor, Bombay Mutual Annexe Building, opposite Hotel Residency, Rustom Sidhwa Marg, off DN Road, Fort; Call 22642284, 22695756 Panache didn't know we were there.u00a0The Guideu00a0reviews anonymously and pays for meals