The Mahakumbh is as mighty a soul-stirrer as they've always made it out to be; murk, madness and all
The Mahakumbh is as mighty a soul-stirrer as they've always made it out to be; murk, madness and all
I've been spiritual but never religious. And my firm belief in this philosophy intensifiedu00a0during my trip to celluloid's most loved public event -- the legendary Kumbh Mela. According to astrologers, it takes place when the planet Jupiter enters Aquarius and the Sun enters Aries. Even if you write off every bit of those confusing calculations, the tryst with the Lord is no less enlightening. 
Frankly, I wasn't interested at first, because the tour would take up an entire weekend, the departure was scheduled at 5.30 in the morning, and I generally prefer to keep away from any thing or place which is infected by any sect's extremist school of thoughts, which I thought Kumbh was all about.
Seated in a luxury bus beside my photographer Subhash Barolia, we cruised closer to the holy city of Haridwar, and I could see temporary halt camps for pilgrims, economical food stores, assistance centres and endeavours that were 'faith driven'.
"Kumbh gives us a chance for community service, which we wouldn't like to shun, because it's our responsibility to make sure that whosoever comes to visit the mela, doesn't feel helpless," explained Kanti Ram, coordinator of one of the pandals in Muzaffarnagar, which is on the way to Haridwar. It took another three hours before we reached the Kumbh Parking Lot in Haridwar, a point beyond which cars and heavier vehicles are not allowed. That's a pain, a big one, because the city still faces an absence of a solid transport system. Since we had no other option, we walked down a few kilometres, through the narrow lanes to the landmark buildingu00a0-- Lahore House -- where tents were installed on the roof so that we could get a clear view of the Ganges.
It was two in the afternoon when we reached. Soon afteru00a0 lunch, we retired, to regain all the lost strength. The comfortable tents made sure we sent the itinerary for a six, as we kept sleeping non-stopu00a0 before the evening tea was served the next day. Then, we tightened our laces and pushed off for the evening aarti, which can be missed at no cost because of its grand scale and the divine vibes that the hymns give out. Even in that hustle-bustle of multi-ethnicity, the noise of relentless speakers and loud pundits, the aarti sends outu00a0u00a0 sounds of peace. The spirit of piety is all-pervasive, and more than evident in the eyes of people who take a dip in the freezing water and float diyas for their deity. And it's not only Hindus who do it. I met Germans, Brazilians, Frenchmen and Russians who had reached there days before I did, and would stay their till the end of the fair in April to be a part of this pious sangam.
The evening aarti is performed anytime between five to seven, depending upon the sunset, so it's best you reach 'Har Ki Pairi' in advance. Har Ki Pairi (Har means Lord Shiva, Ki means of and Pairi means steps) has mythological relevance. It is believed to have been visited by Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu in the Vedic times. It is also the spot where the Ganges leaves the mountains and enters the plains.
And worry not, you're in safe hands in Haridwar as the armed forces keep a vigil on everyone. It's better you carry your identity proof since you can be asked to produce one at several checkposts in and around the ghats. Instead of hiring a rickshaw, we decided to walk down to the hotel, which was about three kilometres from the ghat, so that we could soak in some amazing street food and talk to some Naga sadhus who reek of knowledge and speaking skills.u00a0 I saw one Naga sitting under a peepal tree, and managed to talk to him about the history of Kumbh.
"The roots date back to the time of Samudramanthan, when asuras and devtas got into a fight for the pot of nectar that guaranteed immortality. So that the pot doesn't go to the devils, its protection was bestowed to Brahaspati, Surya, Chandra and Shani, who were later chased by asuras for 12 days and nights. During this fierce battle, the protectors kept the pot at Haridwar, Prayag, Ujjain and Nasik, where Kumbh is celebrated every 12 years to commemorate the event", he explained.
"Subah subah le Shiv ka naam" is the bhajan which woke us up the next day, that too at four in the morning. They say you don't need an alarm in Haridwar, and not without reason. It made sure we attended the morning aarti, where people brave freezing weather to take a dip and wash off their sins.
The water of the Ganga has healing capabilities, as elaborated by Ayurveda physician Charak, who lived in 300 BC. After the aarti, we pushed off to the temple of Mansa Devi, the goddess who fulfils all desires, but the line was so long and the rush so ruthless that we forgot about asking for anything by the time we got a glimpse of the idol.
The cable car ride to this temple is fun. Though there are several other places to roam about, we kept our visit restricted to Kumbh only, after all, the chance comes once in 12 years.u00a0u00a0
PLACES OF INTEREST
>> Handi Devi Temple
>> Daksheswara Mahadev
>> Neel Dhara Pakshi Vihar
>> Sati Kund
>> Bhimgoda Tank
>> Jairam Ashram
>> Sapt Rishi Ashram and Sapt Sarovar
>> Parad Shivling
>> Ramanand Ashramu00a0
>> Ram Mandir
Price: Rs 7,000 (deluxe tent) and Rs 8,500 (superior tent)
Valid till: April 28, 2010
Contact: Leisure Hotels, F - 3/6, Ground Floor, Okhla Inds. Area, Phase I,
Website: www.leisurehotels.co.in
Ring: 46520000
'STAY' order
Leisure Hotels has erected luxury tents 65 cottage camps over an area of four acres along the Ganges. The camps are weather-proof, with attached baths and toilets having running hot and cold water. Chinese, continental and regional cuisines, particularly Gujarati and South Indian, areu00a0 served. Guided visits to the shrine, escorted walk and visits to nearby areas are some of the other facilities on the list. There will be a special aarti everyday, along with religious discourses, yoga lessons, Srimad Bhagwat Katha Path and meditation.
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