The silver lining to fashion week
As soon as the gates opened, swarms of people in fancy cuts and styles, and their branded accessories, forgot the elegance of their gait and rushed in to find a perfect spot. Welcome to the grand finale show of the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW), which showcased a collection by couturier Manish Malhotra.
Varun Dhawan, Kareena Kapoor and Manish Malhotra at the grand finale of the fashion week
Malhotra’s popularity amongst the creme la creme of the city is unprecedented, hence the curiosity around his new collection, filled the hall in the guise of guests who couldn’t wait to see what the designer has in store this time around. And Malhotra
didn’t disappoint. Deviating from his favourites like chikankari and even the intricate Kashmiri embroidery, the designer stuck to contemporary mirror work and textured shimmer with the use of rose motifs in several ensembles.
A model displaying a design from Malhotra’s collection
To give a bridal feel and to add to the drama, the ramp was designed as a luxurious bridal suite with beautiful floral decorations at several corners and a dressing table in a corner. Actor Varun Dhawan opened the show looking dapper in a jute jacket with velvet detailing and black trousers. But the showstopper of the evening, Kareena Kapoor, stole the show as she glided down the ramp in a glittering silver front open low back kurta over a shaded, shimmering, panelled lehenga and a grey tulle cape appliqued with rose motifs and lace.
A model wearing a Priyadarshini Rao ensemble. Pics/ Satyajit Desai and Shadab Khan
Our favourite section of the show was the one where models strutted down the ramp wearing silver and grey ensembles with sequins and shimmer. Known to use rich colours, this experimentation worked wonders for Malhotra’s line. On the other hand, colours like wine and burgundy dominated the collection used on fabrics like silk, velvet and chiffon.
Gold zari work was used in Vikram Phadnis’ collection
To contemporarise his line, Malhotra substituted traditional lehangas with flow-y skirts and created even a cross between Western and Indian with sari gowns.
Along with that the abundant Bollywood power in the show, not just on the ramp, but off the ramp as well, with the front row being occupied by Priyanka Chopra, Juhi Chawla, Karisma Kapoor, Kajol, Karan Johar and Sridevi among others, made the show a star-studded affair.
What others showcased on the final day
The designer presented a plethora of hues on a traditional palette and stuck to his signature style. The use of gold zardosi and gota was dominant on palazzo pants, kurtis and saris. Actress Dia Mirza and Bipasha Basu added the celeb factor to
The line was a tribute to indigo and the colour was used in different shades for the entire collection. Silk, chanderi, chiffon, georgette, and brocade with a touch of antique embroidery and tissue were the highlights of the line. We loved the demure paisley prints and the layering that brought forward some interesting casual looks.
Actress Priyanka Chopra, wearing a silver jacket teamed with black trousers and a crop top, added the glam factor to designer Varun Bahl’s line, which primarily featured western silhouettes and floral embroideries. The gota jacket amongst other things caught our attention.
Fusion wear took centre stage in this line with more focus on westernised styles comprising skirts, blouses, jackets, pants, etc, along with Indo-Western dresses and saris, which were crafted in fabrics like silk, georgette, chiffon and net. The floral detailing was a standout.
This debutante designer showcased an impressive collection by using organic tussar and silk and presenting them with quilting details. The bright hues with cross stitch worked wonders for the line.
A special embroidery called button flower, which has 3D thread work flowers appliqued over mirror flowers, was a standout feature of this line. The pop pink-toned ghagra choli, embellished with gold, worn by actress Ileana D'Cruz, who was the showstopper, looked beautiful.
This season carried forward several trends from the past seasons. We list few that are still making fashion sense:
>> Ankle-length pants: Short is still good when it comes to pants.
A model wearing ankle-length pants created by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty
>> Full-sleeves blouses: Covered sleeves gave cut sleeves a run for their money at this season of the fashion week.
>> Leather: This fabric was the hero of several collections.
A model during Nitin Chawla’s show
>> Long coats: Wear them with saris or jeans or even shorts. Pair these fashion essentials with anything.
>> Floral prints and motifs: Autumn is round the corner but these spring favourites are still a big hit.
>> Quilting: The quilting technique found favour with several designers including Anita Dongre, Arjun Khanna, and Pranav Mishra & Shyma Shetty.
>> Intelligent layering: Other than Dhruv Kapur who used a shearling sort of texture for his outfits, several designers utilised the best of light Indian fabrics such as chanderi and jamdani for layering. And not through just fabrics, even through pieces such as trench coat with a sari (Shruti Sancheti) and skirts with churidar (Payal Singhal).
>> The bride wore black: Sabyasachi Mukherjee had long been using black for wedding outfits, which is considered as a taboo colour. LFW too saw black as part of lehengas, predominantly in Jade’s collection.
>> Beards: International models such as Ricki Hall have made it popular. This season we saw several male models (and designers Pranav Mishra and Ujjwal Dubey) sporting a full beard. What works best with it is a side-buzzed haircut.
>> Flatforms: This is another trickle down trend, flatforms have been seen on international runways for several seasons now, LFW too saw a fair share this season.
With inputs from Dhara Vora