Learn about the unique, 1,563-member tribe of Totopara in West Bengal, and gaze at black-and-white triptychs at a four-day photo festival
A traditional Toto home made with bamboo sticks and a straw roof
It takes Mulund-based photographer Abhijit Alka Anil over 50 hours to reach Totopara. It involves a train journey to New Jalpaiguri followed by a bus ride to Madarihat village and a back-breaking jeep ride to the eight-square kilometre hamlet near the Indo-Bhutan border in the Alipurduar district of West Bengal.
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An elderly couple drinks the local liquor, Eu, from copper bowls
“You need to cross six river beds to reach Totopara from Madarihat. The villagers have been demanding for a connecting bridge but it hasn’t been constructed yet,” says Abhijit, who has visited the remote village twice in the last three years. The reason: He is working on a long-term visual documentation project, Shedding Light — Totos of Totopara, to raise awareness about the isolated tribe. This Sunday, he will showcase a slide show at Photo Fiesta 2016 presented by NCPA’s Centre for Photography as an Art Form.
Every Tuesday, Totopara hosts a market where traders from neighbouring villages come to sell everyday goods
The back story
Three years ago, Abhijit read about Rita Toto, the first woman from the tribe to graduate in 2010. Intrigued, the 32-year-old photographer ventured on a self-funded trip to Totopara. “At the time of Independence, there were 300 Totos. Today, the tribe comprises 1,563 members, of which, 1,000 speak the Toto language. The village suffers from a lack of infrastructure, medical facilities and education. Even Rita graduated from Prasannadeb Women’s College in Jalpaiguri. It is also inaccessible during the monsoons since it lies at the mouth of Hauri river. I was keen to visually document the tribe, which has never been attempted before, to help their overall development,” says Abhijit, who plans to publish a photo-book by 2020, offering an insight into the tribe’s way of life.
The script Toto uses and Abhijit Alka Anil
Meet the Totos
While some locals have moved into pucca homes, many still live in traditional bamboo huts. The Totos are mainly engaged in agriculture — growing maize, jackfruit and betelnut — besides rearing cattle, poultry and pigs. Some also cross over to the Bhutan side of the border to work on construction sites.
Rita Toto, the first woman graduate from the Toto tribe. Pics courtesy/Abhijit Alka Anil
Their staple diet includes rice and fish, while beef is a must-have at weddings. “They also drink Eu, a local liquor made from fermented marua (sweet basil) leaves,” shares Abhijit, adding, “Initially, breaking the ice was a challenge but I sent them prints of photographs. They have warmed up to me now.” He leaves for the village next week to add to the 200 GB of data he has collected so far.
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