Stuck in Kolhapur for the weekend? Fret not. Choose from playing discoverer inside Panhala's labyrinth of darwazas and dungeons or turning into a wildlife buff at Sagareshwar, one of Maharashtra's green success stories
Stuck in Kolhapur for the weekend? Fret not. Choose from playing discoverer inside Panhala's labyrinth of darwazas and dungeons or turning into a wildlife buff at Sagareshwar, one of Maharashtra's green success stories
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An aerial view of Panhala's fortifications
Panhala is at about 20 km from Kolhapur town, so it's best to board a State Transport bus to reach the fort. If you have limited time, hire a car. The Shilaharas, the Yadavas, the Adil Shahs, the Marathas, the Mughals, and finally, the British spent considerable effort in conquering this impregnable fort owing to its solid construction and the thick forests nearby.
We were not keen to return to the buzz of Kolhapur, so we checked in at Meghdoot, an old British bungalow converted into a hotel. The spacious, well-kept rooms tempted us to take a nap, but we resisted and set off to explore Panhala after freshening up and tucking into a very tasty breakfast.
Named by Shivaji during his reign at the fort, Panhala can be easily explored on foot. We hired a local guide to ensure we didn't miss out on the important points. Every structure within the fort had a story to tell, and our guide seemed to have memorised each of them. A long steep slope naturally protects one half of the fort while high parapet walls reinforce this further. A strong stone wall with the added strength of bastions protects the other half.
Originally, the fort had three strong double-walled entrances. Only two have weathered the repeated assaults and test of time. The main entrance to the fort on the east is Char Darwaza, which was destroyed during an attack.
The entrance on the west, Teen Darwaza has withstood many attacks, though itu00a0 appears scarred by gunshots. Inside this entrance is Andhara Bova. According to our guide, this step well was connected to the Rankala Talav of Kolhapur. At one time, it was used as a means to raise an alarm in case of an emergency. If there was trouble at Panhala, a lemon was thrown into the Andhara Bova, which would find its way to Rankala Talav, as a warning signal!
Wagh Darwaza was the easiest route but was defended by a tiger and hence the name (wagh: tiger). Sajja Kothi got its name because Shivaji's son Sambhaji was kept under house arrest here (sajja: punishment).
Situated on the eastern side of the fort, it offers a panoramic view of Kolhapur Valley. This was the seat of governance and was also used to lure enemies by lighting up the fort so it appeared like the entrance. Daru Kothi, near Sajja Kothi was the ammunitions depot. There is also Dharma Kothi, the charity house, where fakirs and beggars were given free grain. Now, this houses the Panhala police station.
Ambarkhana (the granary) also added to the strength of Panhala fort because it ensured survival during continuous enemy attacks. Three granaries -- Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati, with a capacity of 50,000 tons stored rice, jowar and bajra, respectively. After refreshingly insightful lesson on Panhala's fortifications, we broke for lunch at one of the local hotels and restedu00a0 at the botanical gardens nearby. The sprawling garden is peaceful and ideal for a late afternoon siesta. End your day by watching the sunset at the sunset point called Pusati Buruj.
Sagareshwar: A manmade wonder
After we relived the past at Panhala, a completely different experience awaited us on the following day. Over 10 sq km of lush manmade forest, home to a variety of wildlife was created as a result of one man's wisdom, foresight and resilience.
A peacock crosses the road path inside the sanctuary
We were at Sagareshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, which is about 80 km from Kolhapur, near Karad, off the Pune-Bangalore Highway. What sets Sagareshwar apart is that it is the result of planned afforestation, with the support of local population.
The sanctuary is the brainchild of D M Mohite, a freedom fighter and journalist from Karad. A visit to Tadoba Wildlife Sanctuary (now a tiger reserve) near Nagpur, convinced Mohite to create a similar zone near Karad. Mohite was hooked on to this idea and even coaxed the political leadership at the time to think green. Thus, wasteland was painstakingly converted into a lush landscape in 1971. By 1984, 15 spotted deers were introduced into this grassland. Sambhars, Cheetals, and other herbivorous animals were added to the wildlife.
In 1994, Sagareshwar was officially declared a wildlife sanctuary and it now comes under Kolhapur Wildlife Division.
We took our vehicle inside the sanctuary through the forest path. Strolling peacocks, chirping birds and grassy hill slopes added to the beauty of the sanctuary. The view of Krishna River from the top of the hill is breathtaking.
An ancient Shiva temple, believed to have been built in the Satavahana era is located in the sanctuary. A forest guesthouse offers accommodation to visitors though one needs to book in advance through Kolhapur or Pune forest offices.
What to see
* Teen Darwaza, Ambarkhana, Sajja Kothi, Daru Kothi, Wagh Darwaza, Rede Mahal, Dharma Kothi, Tarabai Palace, Ambabai temple, Sambhaji temple, Someshwar temple and tank, Andhara Bova, and Nayakini Sajja
How to raech
* Kolhapur is an overnight journey from Mumbai (11-12 hours). Besides, several Volvo buses ply this route (approximately eight hours). Book in advance to ensure a comfortable road journey (404 km). Mumbai and Kolhapur are also connected by flights.
Best time to visit
* August to February
Where to stay
* Hotel Meghdoot (235052/181); Panhala offers many stay options including an MTDC resort
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