Where did you say the food is from again?
The culinary influences at the new pan-Asian restaurant in Andheri appear confused. If you order the Japanese curry with rice, it might remind you more of home than you had hoped
Andheri’s new pan-Asian restaurant draws culinary inspiration from Burma (Khao Suey), Singapore (Laksa), Japan (sushi), Thailand (Green Curry), Indonesia (Rendang Lamb), and China (Crispy Chicken), which might explain why we came away baffled by this palate round-trip.
The Tom Kha Chicken (Rs 140) is a flavourful coconut-milk based soup. The chicken, however, tasted over-boiled and the stock tasted like its origins were from a packet, instead of a stockpot bubbling with chicken broth.
We descended further into no-man’s land with the Crispy Corn and Bamboo Shoots (Rs 160) that featured battered and deep-fried golden corn with bamboo shoots tossed in chilli-garlic sauce.
Not a wise choice. The Wok-tossed Mushrooms (shiitake, shimeji, enoki, button mushrooms) with Scallions (Rs 210) was another strictly average dish. The Button mushrooms were good, but the Shiitake mushrooms were chewier than normal, and far from fresh.
We knew we were still home, when we tucked into the Japanese Curry Chicken with Sticky Rice (Rs 390) served in white bowls. The tomato-based curry tasted similar to a makhni gravy, and while it tasted good, it was not the sort of Main we were expecting — or paying for— at a restaurant that dubs itself as pan-Asian.
The Beancurd Robatayaki (Rs 280) had chunks of grilled tofu, slightly sweetened with teriyaki sauce, and served on skewers. The tofu was fresh and crumbled when we tried lifting it with our forks.
Grilling the tofu, however, seemed an unnecessary cooking step, as it did little to enhance the dish, which appeared in a confused heap on our plates.
For dessert, we decided on the Mango Meringue (Rs 180), which was surprisingly good. The meringue was light, with the mango bits adding a pleasant sweetness to the dish.
Feels like home
While we chose to sit indoors to escape the heat, the outside section is the prettier of the two options, with its low seating, pretty lanterns and plants. The service is friendly, if a little clueless, and we did feel welcome.
Perhaps what Nom Nom needs to do is trim down its menu and, as they say in the corporate world, focus on its strengths. The problem is that its strengths might lie in flavours far from the ‘Orient’.
At Shubham Housing Society, Four Bungalows, Andheri (W).
Nom Nom didn’t know we were there.
The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.