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Shoppers with testosterone
By: Shweta Shiware

India: 

Milind Soman, Model, actor

Frequency: I hardly ever shop. I go if I need something desperately.
Company: It depends if I am with someone when I go shopping.
Damages: I don't spend all that much, really.
Bottomline: I'm quality-conscious, not brand-conscious. I don't think men relate to fashion the way women do. We don't go berserk over shopping.

 

Raghavendra Rathore, menswear designer

The idea of a menswear fashion week wouldn't have worked three years ago when the market was infant. Today, the mature and well-travelled man treats shopping as a holistic experience. Men can't choose easily, so, they end up buying in bulk. And that's great for us!

For Narendra Kumar, it was about "keeping the faith". Ravi Bajaj is glad the new Indian male is finally thinking about himself. Arjun Khanna believes Indian men are a breed that's taken for granted by spouses and the fashion market. Raghavendra Rathore predicts men are likely to set new standards of shopping for women. Gaurav Gupta, a fresher in the men's apparel segment, feels it's a phenomenon in the reckoning for long.

These are the guys who decide the width of your pinstripe, whether or not that shirt you pick for work will wear a front pocket, whether you will slide into a slim fit or relaxed trouser. And they are ecstatic. The new Indian male has finally allowed retail therapy into his life. "I believed the 80:20 principle (80% women shoppers against 20% men) ruled markets all over the world. But the equilibrium is tilting," says Pradeep Hirani, who decided to gift exclusive space to his male clients who were "uncomfortable shopping at a women's mutli-designer designer store" by setting up Ayamik at Juhu.

It's not only designers who are chasing the evolved male. International brands like Mango, that cater to the mid-higher segment, and have met with overwhelming response with Indian women shoppers, are ready to launch exclusive menswear collection, in the next few months.

Who is this new Indian male?

"He is clean-shaven, and good-looking in a plain sort of way. Exposure to international brands has transformed him from the thick moustache, silk shirt and gold accessory man to a haute couture hero. The average Indian shopper prefers personalised service, and is developing a distinct taste for luxury," says Sanjay Kapoor, MD Genesis Luxury, a group that represents Kenzo, Paul Smith and Canali in India.

It has taken 21 years of hard-earned understanding in menswear for Delhi-based designer Ravi Bajaj to arrive at, the "Men are more brand loyal than women" theory. Men are prudent when it comes to spending their money. "If they like something, they will buy in bulk. I have male clients who walk in, and within a span of minutes, shop for merchandise worth lakhs," he says.

What's led to the change?

Exposure to international trends, travel and the economic boom have led to the rise of a new shopper who wants to indulge himself to the point of being frivolous.

What men want

Shallow as it may sound, men today have their hearts set on tangible pleasures; whether it's first class
travel, a 5-star stay or a Bally bag to carry their laptop in. "He doesn't want to be dressed in a Raymond suit, while his bride flaunts a Sabyasachi Mukherjee saree on their wedding day," says Sabina Chopra, buyer for Aza Men, a men's-only multi-designer boutique at Kemp's Corner. Sabina's observations have revealed that men tend to be more adventurous and generous while shopping alone. "Fifty per cent of India's population is under 25. That's the working, earning segment. They have the money to spend, and they are spending it on themselves," says Narendra Kumar, who dresses Bollywood's Alpha males, including John Abraham.


kab, kahaan, kitna: famous guys spill the beans on shopping bills 
Nikhil Chib, Restaurateur

Frequency: I am not an impulsive shopper, so, I set out just once or twice a year.
Company: It's
usually with my wife Natasha. She's a stylist, so, I trust her opinion.
Damages: I end up spending between Rs 1 and Rs 2 lakh, a year.   
 
Pankaj Advani, World Snooker Champion 

Frequency: I shop when I'm travelling. It's usually clothes or accessories, never anything for the home, because that's a woman's department. I'm fond of shopping for cosmetics, skincare products and shampoos.
Damages: My mother gets furious about how I go crazy. 
 
Ronit Roy, TV actor

Frequency: I only shop abroad. I have a fetish for Italian shoes.
Company: I shop with my wife because she usually travelling with me.
Damages: I've spent 5000 pounds (Rs 4,11,663 approx) at Selfridges, London, for a pair of shoes, jeans and bags for my wife. 
 
Sunil Padwal, Artist

Frequency: I shop when I travel to Singapore, Hong Kong, Europe, Dubai and US. Last week I was in Dubai on work, and I picked four pairs of shoes, and a Welder watch.
Damages: I can't tell (laughs). I go crazy sometimes. I pay attention to quality of design.
 
Shaan Mukherjee, Playback singer, host

Frequency: I shop around 10 times a year; usually when I'm travelling abroad.
Damages: I went to Dubai last week, and bought two space suit costumes, for Rs 50,000 each, for my shows. I am what you would call a reckless shopaholic. I dig
shopping for clothes, shoes and sunglasses.
 
Ashwin Deo, CEO-South Asia, Asia Pacific Breweries India

Frequency: I shop at the drop of a hat. I
travel a lot on work, and if I see something I like, I buy it.
Damages: The maximum I have spent on a shopping trip, is Rs 30,000. I shop for shoes and clothes, mostly suits. In India, Delhi has more to offer than Mumbai.
 

International label prices 

Italian brand Brioni
Formal and evening wear shirts: Rs 22,000 to
Rs 61,000

Italian brand Canali
Formal shirts: Rs 8,000 to Rs 20,000
Evening wear: Rs 50,000 to Rs, 60,000

Italian brand Pal Zileri
Formal shirts and evening wear: Rs 7,899 to
Rs 11,000

Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna
Formal shirts: Rs 9,800 to Rs 35,000
Evening wear: Rs 11,000 to Rs 18,000
Italian brand Etro
Formal shirts and evening wear: Rs 10,000 to
Rs 20,000

Italian brand Dolce & Gabbana
Formal shirts and evening wear: Rs 12,000 to
Rs 24,000

Japanese fashion house Kenzo
Formal shirts: Rs 10,000 to Rs 13,000
Evening wear: Rs 10,700 to Rs 27,500

Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo,
Formal shirts: Rs 13,800 to Rs 19,000



Statistics reveal that in 2001-2002, 20,000 families in India had an annual income of more than Rs 1 crore. By 2005, it's increased to 53,000 families. By 2010, India will have 1,40,000 millionaires.

- Sanjay Kapoor, MD Genesis Luxury


President and CFO of world's largest steel firm, ArcelorMittal, Aditya Mittal on fashion, in GQ's latest issue

Fashion is important, always. I think everyone, to some extent, is vain. And I am no exception.

I don't have a good fashion sense. So, if there's no label attached to it, I think it's crap. I need a nice Gucci or Giorgio Armani label to tell me that it's a good piece to wear.

Rarely, maybe twice a year. But when I go shopping, I go shopping!


A man is rarely going to go against the wishes of his woman. If she says no to the white shirt he's liked, he won't buy it.

- Sabina Chopra, buyer for Aza Men, a multi-designer menswear store at Kemps Corner


For a woman, shopping is an experience, for men it's an ego massage. Men don't waste time, they shop for 10 shirts at one go. The younger lot shops with girlfriends.

- Pradeep Hirani, proprietor of Ayamik, a multi-designer menswear boutique at Juhu


The fashion mag market is chasing the guys, and how!

Superna Motwane, Editor/Publisher of Apricot Publications, that will launch L'officiel Hommes magazine this year

The Indian male, just like the Indian woman, is looking at fashion, luxury and lifestyle differently. He is far from conventional! He's into health, beauty, fitness, travel and lifestyle.

It's the right time to launch a luxury men's magazine since the advertiser market in that space, is growing. Most international hi-end brands are here, or have plans to enter India shortly. 

The L'Officiel Hommes man desires ultimate luxury. He wants the best home, car, watch, lifestyle. He has the money and wants to live in the lap of luxury. He is
conscious of his body, mental peace and wealth.

The Indian man is interested in private jets, yachts, fast cars, exclusive travel destinations, beauty products, fashion and accessories, not just in stocks, politics and the economy.


Alex Kuruvilla, Managing Director, Condè Nast India group that launched men's magazine GQ

The Indian man is more powerful than ever... With a disposable income of Rs 5 lakh (approximately) a year, the Indian man is affluent, evolved, sophisticated and  knows he's a trendsetter. He enjoys being ahead of the curve.


The man the advertiser is after

The sure-fire sign that heralds the rise of male shoppers, is the introduction of men-variants in retail products like the Fair & Handsome face whitening cream. Though women shop more, buying power usually rests with the man, making them an anticipated target audience.

Today's man is interested in fitness, social networking, and leisure activities, besides gadgets and cars. Research on ad campaigns reveals that men are less spontaneous in their shopping, since they prefer to know details about the brand/label/product before they buy it.


Men today are as aware about labels, fabrics, and designers, as women are

Ajay Chandwani, Executive Director, Percept Advertising









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