We arrived in Hospet, the "gateway town" to Hampi, at seven on a Friday morning. We were so glad to be off the bus (and away from the pothole-ridden road and, more importantly, rid of a noisy basketball team who were also on the bus), that any sight would have been welcome.A travel agent had booked our hotel there, so we dropped off our bags and got an auto up to Hampi.
Vast green fields, towering palm trees and sculpted orange boulders swept past, the refreshing landscape was re-energising after the tedium of the bus ride. As we finally reached Hampi, the views were worth all of the sleepless hassles from the bus and the basketball team (who loudly sang pop songs until at least 4 a.m., their mobile phones blasting the accompanying melodies).
The main temple, Virupaksha, towers over the streets that are full of sadhus, backpackers and monkeys. The temple is the largest in the area, and the town is built entirely around it. Intricate carvings of gods and goddesses cover the walls and pillars, and there is a resident temple elephant, Lakshmi, who will bless patrons with her trunk for one rupee.
The ancient ruins and lush scenery catch your attention right away. Before long, though, I found myself looking at something that I haven't seen anywhere else in India trash bins. Courtesy the Archaeological Survey of India, big yellow trash receptacles with the polite imperative 'Use Me' messages painted on them are regularly spaced throughout the town, and are even found among the far-flung ruins around the countryside.
Looking around, I noticed that there was no trash at all on the ground; people had actually been using them, a sign, I thought, of how much the locals and tourists appreciate Hampi's natural beauty and history.
Getting around
The town of Hampi itself is small enough to walk around without any trouble, although if staying in Hospet, you should take into account the half-hour drive into Hampi. Some of the ruins and temples are located several kilometers outside the main tourist drag. Friends recommended a guide they had used who was immensely helpful, driving us around and explaining the history. There are also plenty of bicycle rentals around, a relaxing way to see the site at your own pace.
Sites: Visitors could spend days just temple hopping and still not feel like they've seen it all. The main sites are Virupaksha Temple and Hemakuta Hill, overlooking the town and covered with dozens of small, beautiful temples. When you're all templed out, have a look around Hampi Bazaar, where you'll find colorful shops selling the usual tourist goods.
Food: We fell in love with the Mango Tree. Surrounded by a banana plantation and overlooking the Tungabhadra River, we sat for hours, leisurely taking in the view and the delicious food.
Sleep: We found our room in Hospet, at Hotel Malligi, overpriced and far from the ruins. Next time, I'd book one of the budget accommodations near the Bazaar in Hampi.
Getting there
Choosing thrift over luxury, my travel companions and I hopped on the overnight "semi-sleeper" bus from Majestic Bus Station in Bangalore. The nine-hour KSRTC bus ride was uncomfortable and bumpy; on the way back our bus was missing the door. Next time, I think, we'll pay extra for a private sleeper bus or a train.
