Delicately positioned atop a dramatic composition of luscious, red prawns tossed with iceberg lettuce cloaked in a Thai dressing guarded by seeded marinated black olives and cherry tomatoes is a quenelle of ginger studded aioli crowned with a length of chives.
'Continental food', a remnant of our colonial history is being replaced by the heady bouquet of globally inspired aromas through the prism of a very Indian palate. Vinay Jeyraj, chef of the Lotus Cafe at the JW Mariott, is one of the new generation of chefs who refuses to be bogged down by the abysmal history of the coffee shop. "I want Lotus Cafe to have more of a bistro or cafe feel," he says, explaining the rational behind the sparkling new menu. Launched on August 22, the menu maintains an even balance between familiar Indian foods, burgers and pastas and a fair sprinkling of innovative alternatives.
His Chilled Arabian Sea Prawns for instance, is a novel response to the conventional Prawn Cocktail.
A little fine tuning wouldn't hurt though considering the excessively tart, but elegantly gingered aioli drowns out the subtler Asian flavours. Something of a mix between a tikki and a potato chop, the Crisp Fried Galette of Potato, is marvellously paired with a salad of nutty argula and dried apricots and served with mint yogurt and tamarind chutney.
A truly unexpected and divine pairing. The singular disappointment in the entire meal was the Curryleaf and Black Pepper Crusted Paneer Tikka, which was too subtly flavoured and uncomfortably dry in the mouth.
The main course largely consisting of Indian dishes held no surprises with the exception of the Seven Spice Pomfret. An adaptation of Cajun Blackened Fish, the filet of pomfret is crusted with Indian spices prominent among them being saunf and pan-fried. A bit dry for my taste and I felt it could do with a slightly larger serving of the tamarind jaggery sauce, but excellent flavours and texture.
Constrained by the limited capacity of our stomachs we refrained from sampling the sandwiches and burgers despite the enticing Panini Triple Sandwich and - ho hmm regular Salmon Bagel.
A judicious decision for we were soon plunging into the Speciality Grills. Influenced by the nouveau western aesthetic of allowing the central ingredient to stand out, the meats are very gently flavoured accompanied by sauces that accentuate and not mask its innate flavours. The New Zealand Lamb Chop, cooked medium-rare served with a green pea and basil mash accompanied by a Pinot Noir Sauce was exquisite though a tad over salted. In themselves the Tiger Prawns were a little too plain but when drizzled with some Beurre Blanc are eloquently elevated.
But the best was unquestionably for last! The Cappucino Chocolate Mousse presented in the shape of a cup with a huge dollop of whipped cream mimicking the foam was sinfully evil. Rich, moist, luscious, smooth, airy and sensual, it was passion food - food that arouses and tempts you to run back home to play out your naughtiest fantasies. And I don't even like chocolate usually!
The a la carte menu is priced at regular coffee shop prices ranging from Rs 250 to Rs 825 depending on the course. The buffets haven't undergone any significant changes and are priced at Rs 450, Rs 575 and Rs 300 for the lunch dinner and dessert buffets respectively.
andheri@mid-day.com
