Chinese Restaurants, a 5-part documentary by Canadian director Cheuk Kwan, that’s being screened in Mumbai this evening, is at the vortex of its cameraman’s metamorphosis. Exploring how immigrant Chinese have strengthened their roots in alien land by setting up eateries, the film has helped Ajay look beyond Chilli Chicken, and even go at it with chopsticks. “They all said I had to learn, and so, I did in a week. Just when I thought I’d cracked it, they put a peanut on a laminate table and challenged me to pick it up in one go!” he laughs.
13 countries, 1 film
The ambitious project required Cheuk, once a disillusioned software engineer, to travel across Canada, Argentina, Madagascar, South Africa and Peru over four years, before he landed here for a 3-week recce across Indian cities. Ajay moved from being a help at hand, to second cameraman, while Cheuk discovered the story behind Ling’s Pavilion, one of Mumbai’s best known family-run Chinese restaurants. “We contrasted this generations-old authentic establishment, with New Embassy in Kolkata, a tiny eatery of Indo-Hakka style, that’s happy to squeeze in Indian spices to invent a dish like Chilli Chicken,” says Ajay.
Ling’s made it to the menu
The film is shot from Cheuk’s point of view, as he questions ideas of migrant identity and assimilation, hoping one restaurant in each city will furnish answers. “The interviews, interspersed with footage of cooking and feasting, are casual. “When we met Nini Ling of Ling’s, Cheuk got talking. There was no filming. Only when they got comfortable, were we signalled to roll camera.” Before they knew it, the team was invited home, and albums were pulled out to give a face to stories that were rolling off their lips, says Ajay, of the unobtrusive method of filming.
To Argentina and back
What’s special about the film is not its format, but reservoir of stories, like the one they found in Mr Chiang’s Casa China in Buenos Aires.
Cheuk rounded off a farewell beer drinking session, before he left India, with, “Ajay, see you in South America”. Surprised at being invited to assist Cheuk beyond the Indian schedule, Ajay got to meet the 76-year old Mr Chiang, who’s made Argentina his home. “With his wife and kids having moved to the US, he is lonely, and his story is poignant. You want to hug him and take him home,” says Ajay, about the man whose eatery is part of a cultural center, where he shares secrets of Chinese cooking with locals, who teach him how to tango.
The only downside to all this: Ajay can’t eat at Ling’s anymore. “They just won’t let me pay!” But a special dinner, post tonight’s screening, is too tempting to brush aside. “No overriding spices, just the delicate flavour of ginger. Aah...”
Where you can catch the film
2 segments of a 13 part series called Chinese restaurants will be screened, courtesy Asia Society, at the NGMA auditorium, 2nd floor, opposite Regal cinema, Colaba, followed by a discussion with Ajay Noronha.
At: 6.30 pm Open to all
