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Mumbai's top 4 Sindhi kitchens |
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By: Anjana Vaswani |
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Date:
2008-11-25 |
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Place: Mumbai |
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 CULTURE CURRY
It took these Sindhi entrepreneurs just a few years to go from being refugees to restaurant owners. And since then not much has changed at these old Sindhi eateries. Anjana Vaswani went looking to bring you this guide to authentic Sindhi khado in Mumbai
Jhama's >>> Chembur
It gets its name from proprietor Jhamamal Lulla, a Sindhi refugee from Karachi who set it up in 1950. "Our family lived in the refugee camps nearby," says 30 year-old Ravi, a third generation Lulla. His grandfather's culinary skills and reputation for using ingredients of the highest quality, brought him regulars. Close to six decades later, Jhama's has seven branches across the city but the Chembur branch is still patronised by Sindhi families.
Lakshman Dadlani, a Jhama regular points out that the camps are nothing like they used to be. "Some of the flats are now lavish six-bedroom apartments," he smiles.
Staffer for fifteen years, Naresh Chawla says a lot of movie stars are regulars. Amitabh Bachchan once named Jhama's Gulab Jamuns in a list of his 7 favourite things. Then there's Salman Khan, who picks up sweets while driving down to his Panvel farmhouse.
How to get there: The wide, red signboard cannot be missed on CG Road, near Chembur colony and Basant Cinema. Open from 11 am to 1 pm, Mondays to Sundays. Call: 25537222
What to try: It's a snack and fast-food outlet but the shop has a few bar-stools and tables to offer their patrons. Hot-sellers include Amitabh Bachchan's favourite Gulab Jamuns (Rs 10 a plate), Sev Barfi (Rs 260 a kg) and Vegetarian Biryani (Rs 40 a plate). Lassi (Rs 15) is a favourite during summer
B Bhagat Tarachand >>> Zaveri Bazaar
Bhagat Tarachand Chawla ran a popular eatery in Karachi before Partition, his grandson Prakash Chawla tells us, though he admits that catering was a novel profession for Shikarpuris back then (Shikarpuris were traditionally the money-lenders of the Sindhi community). The restaurant that bears his grandfather's name, was set up 47 years ago by his father Khemchand Chawla. Fifty year-old Prakash's father was born in Karachi, and the stories his father would narrate about their family's exodus are so deeply etched in Prakash's mind that he doesn't more than a moment to recall the details. "My father's family arrived here with just the shirts on their backs. They lived in refugee camps in Chembur, and spent years putting funds together by setting up food-kiosks at Azad Maidan, till they finally saved up to make a down payment for this place."
The small, ground-floor establishment with just seven tables, now has three levels accessed through a narrow winding staircase. "We still serve traditional recipes my grandfather used in Pakistan," says Prakash, mourning that now, that's his family's only link to Karachi.
How to get there: Parking in this street or anywhere around is impossible; even walking down Zaveri Bazaar is nothing short of a feat. This eatery stands a few feet past the right turn that would lead you to a Mumbadevi temple. Open from 9.30 am to 11.30 pm, Mondays to Saturdays. Call: 2425483.
What to try: Recommending the Paneer Bhurjee (Rs 90 a plate), Chawla says, "Paneer dishes were popular in refugee-camps because when the milk would turn rancid, the lady of the house couldn't afford to waste it." Tomato Curry (Rs 25), Papad Churi; a mixture of crushed papad and onion sprinkled with a special masala (Rs 35), and Daal-jo-shiro; a sweet prepared from lentils (Rs 35) are favourites. The Rabdi is to die for (Rs 35).
Shree Gajanan >>> Masjid Bunder
Twenty one year-old HR College of Commerce graduate Bhisham Chawla studied Management, but never wanted anything other than to be part of his great great-grandfather's legacy. This restaurant is another fruit of the the Bhagat Tarachand family. Khemchand Chawla's sons Ramesh, Prakash and Pramod cling to their ancestral legacy with the same passion that fuels Bhisham's desire to "expand the business and educate people about Sindhi cuisine."
"My father does all the grocery shopping himself, and even insists we source potatoes from Mahableshwar, and onions from Nashik, since they are of high quality," Bhisham shares. For them, preparing food is a service which is probably why most of their dishes are still priced between Rs 25 and Rs 30.
How to get there: Head towards the station on Yusuf Meherally Road. At the end of the road, at JB Shah Market in Masjid Bunder area, you'll find Shree Gajanan down a flight of dimly-lit stairs. Open from 10 am to 4.30 pm, 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm, Mondays to Saturdays. Call: 66333035 / 23459384
What to try: The menu is similar to the one offered by B Bhagat Tarachand of Zaveri Bazaar, but this one offers a "meal of the day". On Thursdays, you can try authentic Sindhi Curry. Tuesdays are set aside for Karela Pyaaz.
Vig Refreshments >>> Chembur
Along the same road as Jhama's, stands a far more modest establishment set up by a post Partition resident of Chembur. Sevaram passed it down to daughter Rajkumari and husband Arjundev Arora. Today, the restaurant is managed by Ravi and Pravin, the couple's sons. Thirty six-year-old Ravi and his brother grew up in the Collector's Colony not far from here, and schooled at Swami Vivekananda High School, just like most of the kids in the neighbourhood.
Using traditional recipes, the two manage to drum up a decent business, with the filmy crowd patronising their wares. "RK Studios, SL Studios and Asha Studios are just a stone's throw away. The crew stops by for a meal or orders a massive take-away," says Ravi. That's when Bhangda pop singer Daler Mehendi and actor Raza Murad aren't dropping by.
How to get there: Once you get to East Chembur, ask for Basant Cinema. get to CG Road, walk past Jhama's. About ten shops ahead you'll find Vig Refreshments. Open from 7 am to 10 pm, Mondays to Sundays. Call: 25531032
What to try: Authentic Sindhi Daal-Pakwaan is a hot-seller here; just Rs 18 for a substantial meal. The Pithi Puris made from wheat flour and daal are delicious, even if a little heavy (Rs 23 a plate), and the Ragda Pattice sells out faster than they can pack it (Rs 24 for a 2-piece-serving). |
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