Cricket returns to safari-land again this September with the ICC Champions Trophy. The first disappointment for players and spectators heading across hemispheres this month was that Cape Town will not be one of the venues.
Cricket returns to safari-land again this September with the ICC Champions Trophy. The first disappointment for players and spectators heading across hemispheres this month was that Cape Town will not be one of the venues. But for those who have been down there before, the Johannesburg area has enough to offer to compensate for the lack of Table Mountain, the Cape of Good Hope and Wine Country! Quite apart from the
sights there are to see, the two cricketing arenas will be as good as tourist attractions.
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Bizarre
The first time we ever visited the ground, in 2001, we were staying in Johannesburg, as is often the practice. Our journey from Jo-burg to Centurion started off on a strange note. We had been told not to hit the highway at 6:30 am as it was peak hour! So in order to reach at 8:15, it would actually take longer if we left at say 7 am, than if we left at 7:40 or so after the rush-hour traffic cleared. Bizarre, I thought.
The facilities at Supersport Park were among the best in the world for players and media alike. But the best facet of the ground emerged only after play began the next afternoon, with the hosts taking on an India side waiting to bounce back after a heavy defeat at the Wanderers a few days earlier. The Grandstand had all the amenities, but was the absolute wrong place to watch cricket at that ground, as I discovered quickly.
The grass banks were the answer for anyone wanting a fun day out at the cricket. Giant speakers blasting various remixes of DJ Otzi's "Hey Baby" and other dance chart scorchers, a parade of colourful short tops and bikinis, all lounging on the lazy grassy expanses, rows of "party" houses on stilts that masqueraded as corporate hospitality areas, and the two most vital aspects of life on the grass banks: Braais and Boots.
A short walk away from the Braais, at the far end of the ground, I was told about a boot party that I simply had to attend. It was the name that aroused my curiosity and not the need for more hectic social activity, plenty of which I had been part of the entire afternoon. This was more upmarket, very corporate top brass, and catering to a more snobbish set. The sort who were not used to the idea of sitting around sunbathing and smoking meats. By smoking meats I mean barbequeing and not some exotic African Hookah ritual!
This was Armani suit and silk tie, the latest low cut Versace dresses inspired by Milan Fashion Week. The Chardonnay, Champagne, Beluga Caviar, Cuban Cigar, small talk and smoked salmon variety.
Boot party
And the reason the name "boot party" came about was that, thanks to the limited infrastructure on what was essentially an extension of the grass bank, the bar and kitchen all emerged from the open boots of two Mercedes Benzes parked on the grass bank. Normally, it was standing room only but this time an added attraction was some bonus seating space aboard a World War II Jeep.
India ended up winning that particular match, but going by the intensity of the boot parties and the fun and frolic at the Braais, you would never have guessed that the home team had been well beaten. More of the same was witnessed two years later when India took on Pakistan in the 2003 World Cup, though with desi fans in the ground, there were perhaps a few more batata pavs than braais!
Gautam Bhimani is braving his sixth venture to the rainbow nation. He is on a perpetual hunt for the big five, either to see them or eat them. On the side, he is the roving reporter, tour guide and crew driver for ESPN and Star Cricket's coverage of the Champions Trophy 2009
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