Royal China offers an emperor's feast, but it should take care of some tiny details
Royal China offers an emperor's feast, but it should take care of some tiny details
MY predilection for popular Mumbai restaurants has become well-known, I thought, when I got invited to the recently opened Royal China in the Capital. There is sweet comfort in visiting a place known for familiar standards, which one hopes will be matched at least in food, if nothing else. 
Cantonese honey roasted pork
Delhi also has the added advantage of space (always an improvement) and a tendency towards excess (can swing both ways) -- two aspects on proud, ornate display at this Cantonese fine-dining restaurant spanning the entire 16th floor of the Eros corporate park in Nehru Place.
Up there
The restaurant has three courtyard terraces, large enough for a small private party, two private dining rooms, which, I was told but of course could not verify, have their own private butlers and iPod docking stations to plug in your own music and a small lounge section.
Grand enough to accommodate 200 people, this Royal China offers a grand banquet experience (in Delhi, never a bad thing) rather than an intense, intimate fine dining option.
Duck tales
That is not to say the food is not up to the mark, but then I did not expect anything less. Suffering from a bad bout of winter flu, I could not sample any of the many seafood options, but you must try some as these are highly recommended.
What you must also try is the duck (yes, my predilections are getting famous considering that was the first dish I was offered here), though not in the usual Peking style but the crispy version, served with the usual pancakes, spring onions, cucumbers, and plum sauce (sadly, too salty).
There are steamed, fried and baked dimsums, but forgo the long list of options for the signature Cheung Fun, absolutely exquisite silky smooth rice noodles wrapped around any meat -- prawn, chicken, tenderloin, pork and fish. As we had the chicken Cheung Fun, I ordered the salt and pepper spare ribs, a delicious and surprisingly well-cooked variation (not to mention easier to eat) on the regular spare ribs.
The whole steamed fish (red snapper was not available so we had the Garoupa sea bass) with ginger and spring onion for the main course was very ordinary but the trademark chicken in black bean sauce made up for the rather fishy disappointment, as did the sight of the egg fried rice (on the menu and on the plate).
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Choco cravings
For dessert, I was recommended the mango pudding, but it seemed like a horrendous anomaly. So, while the wife went to the restroom, I took refuge in chocolate cake (warmed as usual and served with ice-cream).
She came back with a look of shock and disgust on her face -- apparently there is only one washroom which was "dirtier than that of a second class train compartment", which just became more intense when she saw the overheated "pedestrian slice of light brown sponge" that I was forbidden from eating.
I walked out giving the wife a corny one-liner: Royal China offers an emperor's feast but it should learn that god is in the details.
At: 16th floor, eros corporate tower, nehru place
Timings: 12.30 to 3.45 pm (for lunch) and 7.30 pm to 11.45 pm (for dinner)
Ring: 49818000
Meal for two: Rs 1,500 + taxes
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