As the Tham brothers open a new Asian gastropub in Lower Parel, they chat about whipping up authentic Cantonese flavours and why the space will remind you of their father's Colaba nightspot Henry Tham's
Ryan Tham and Keenan Tham
Step into Koko, a new Asian gastropub in Kamala Mills, and you instantly spot a beautiful, yellow high-back chair. It acts as a time machine bringing back fond memories of Henry Tham's, Colaba's popular restaurant, known as much for these iconic chairs as its Chinese fare, which shut down a few years ago. "When you sit on something like that, you feel royal," smiles Keenan, as elder brother Ryan makes himself comfortable in the two-seater cushy seating. The Chinese-Indian Tham brothers, who began their career in 2005 at their father's eponymous fine-dine after completing studies in Australia, and have left an indelible mark on the city's food and nightlife scene with Trilogy and The Good Wife, will launch their latest venture this weekend under Pebble Street Hospitality. The 3,500 sq-ft, 80-seater KOKO, which means elder brother in Cantonese ("That's what I call Ryan," says Keenan), largely offers Cantonese fare with Japanese varieties too. "While many offer Asian fare, much of it is for the mass market. The idea is to present premium offerings in a stand-alone space, though we don't want to be overly fancy. The gastropub is a lifestyle outlet more than just a dine-in, because today, guests are keen to savour the entire night-out experience, mixed with drinking and music," observes Keenan.
Ryan (left) and Keenan Tham seated on the high-back chairs at the soon-to-be launched KOKO. Pics/Shadab Khan
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From Hamachi to Hoisin
Helmed by Eric Sifu, a Chinese chef from Malaysia who has worked with Michelin-star restaurant Din Tai Fung's Singapore branch, the menu features soups, sushi, dim sums, small and large plates, cooked with many of the chef's signature sauces like Kompo and Koko Special, along with regional flavours in Assam sauce. While the meats on the menu include pork, sea bass, Hamachi and New Zealand lamb chops, we also spot several vegetarian options like Broccoli With Bird's Eye Chilli dim sum and Chai Poached Dumpling (made with a Chinese chard veggie). "Vegetarians are a huge market now. We've also added a black rice dish, which is healthier too. There's a lot of spicy Indian Chinese fare offered in the market but our varieties are more authentic. That's required today because the Indian palate has become more cultured, since it is exposed to international cuisines," says Keenan. His brother chips in, "Since the time our grandfather ventured into the restaurant business, we have never offered a non-authentic restaurant. We are continuing the same tradition, offering similar flavours with better presentation. We've also revived some of the dishes from Henry Tham's, like the tenderloin varieties and the bestselling Aromatic Prawns. The recipes were created by my father."
The chic interiors, which feature a wall of wooden blocks painted with eclectic, geometric designs, have been designed by Sumessh Menon and his team of architects
Father figure
Interestingly, senior Tham was also actively involved in the venture. "It's always exciting to sit together as a family and bounce ideas off each other. He fine-tuned the flavours with the chef," informs Keenan, giving due credit to his father for mentoring them, when they joined the business at the age of 21 and 23 respectively. "From how to clean the floor to creating the menu and training the staff, he ensured we knew every thing in the restaurant. It was like an all-in-one course," he says. As if on cue, Ryan adds, "He taught us how to create the right ambience and make every guest feel comfortable. We focus a lot on that."
Tom Yum Cup cocktail
Tom Yum in my cocktail
The pub features a 100-foot long island bar offering Asian-flavoured concoctions, infusing ingredients like seaweed, soya sauce, Matcha tea, parmesan and white chocolate too. The drinks menu has been created in collaboration with the world-renowned UK-based mixologist Dimitri Lezinska, who is the co-host of the TV series Cocktail Kings. "He also curated the cocktail menu for The Good Wife. He has brought in a lot of versatility to the bar," says Ryan, egging us to try the Tom Yum Cup, a delightful vodka-basil cocktail infused with tangy Tom Yum flavours.
Move over, molecular
When we ask if they've jumped into the molecular gastronomy fray, Ryan is quick to react, "No, you will not see dishes in boxes and on dry ice. We focus purely on the taste. Molecular gastronomy is on its way out and soon, everyone will go back to relying on the farm-to-table system." Keenan adds, "It's already happening in America. Once the supply chain gets better, it will be a key at restaurants here too."
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