Is the fuss behind Ministry of Crab worth the hype? Our reviewer went for a deep dive to share this report card
Pepper crab
On an earlier visit when we had caught up with Colombo-based chef Darshan Munidasa, whose Ministry of Crab situated in a Dutch hospital sits on Number 25 of the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list, he had told us they have to turn back around 150 customers a day. He had shown modest amusement over customers planning their holidays to Sri Lanka around a meal at the eatery. Mumbai finally gets its very own outpost in Khar, replacing Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (TBZ) on 14th Road.
This comes almost a year after Gourmet Investments announced its launch with much fanfare early last year. We have been bearing the wait by sipping on chai out of their promotion mugs that read "Keep Calm and Crab On". Getting a table is possible only on reservation. We call the landline number incessantly. But the line is busy for two days. Finally, we get through and a table for two is booked.
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Garlic chilli freshwater prawn
The space is designed by The Busride Design Studio. Outside, the facade is fancy, opening into a luxe space done up in wood and gold panels and an added pop of amber yellow with the mud crab symbol and the restaurant linen. We've invited a crab fanatic, who has eaten at the Colombo headquarters, to join us, and has thoughtfully come dressed in black to ensure the crab splutters don't spoil her clothes. We walk in for the first seating at 7 pm, and are led to our table on the mezzanine floor. We spot Vicky Ratnani on the pass. The legs of the high chair are skinny enough to make us falter thrice during the course of the evening, almost falling in the process.
On the table next to ours, there's a couple conversing and we eavesdrop without choice. We feel the need for more breathing space. The server diligently takes us through the menu and explains the signs above the bar. If the light is on, it is available. We nod, and place an order: pepper crab (1/2 kg; Rs 1,995) and garlic chilli big prawns (Rs 825) with Japanese rice (Rs 225). The prawn comes first, and we shell it. The meat is tough and the dish disconnected as the flavours has not seeped in. The buttery sea is overpowering the garlic and chilli.
A board above the bar with lights indicates the availability of crustaceans
Mid-way through our first dish, the lights go out, and we are left sitting in darkness. Our dark peppery crab is placed on the table, and we fumble (candles are offered 30 minutes later) to take pictures and get down to business. The crustacean has been cracked for easy consumption and the meat is tender, but not juicy enough. Again, it's disconnected from its gravy that doesn't hit us with the punch of pepper.
It's just a lot of cholesterol. We pair it with a side of Japanese rice and kade bread and wash the food down with a watery, tasteless version of the much-loved peach iced tea (R245) that we tried in Colombo. This one is synthetic and needs more tea, which the manager boasts has been brought from Sri Lanka for consistency. In a city that has Trishna, Mahesh Lunch Home, Gajalee and Fresh Catch, MOC will have to do a lot more than ride on a high-profile star tag.
Time 7 pm to 1 am
At 442, Chitrakar Dhurandar Marg, 14th Road, Khar West.
Call 7710898811
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