He spins seamless dreams

Designer James Ferreira presented a collection driven by drawstring and drape in Sri Lanka, to see it sold out in less than a month. While the world pays lip service to sustainability, he figures how local raw material can make it to the runway

It will end like it began; with a piece of cloth. It's this poetic yet practical belief that makes Mumbai's
veteran designer James Ferreira's clothes terribly desirable, while being in tune with sustainability, a concern that's currently gripping the fashion industry. The 18-piece collection that he showcased at the Sri Lanka Design Festival held early this month, was conceptualised and executed in less than a week. It's already sold out.

Veteran designer James Ferreira showcased an 18-piece collection
using Sri Lankan handlooms at the Sri Lanka Design Festival held
early this month

From weave to drape, to cut, and finally, a silhouette, James' clothes embody the primordial values of tailoring mixed with the immediacy of today. "My clothes are simple. Most pieces have just one or two seams, making productionu00a0 quick," he says, over the phone from Panjim where he's styling a wedding. Based on the fragile foundation of drapes and drawstrings, the parade of effortless, slip-on resort wear garments exuded a brazen energy that's now synonymous with his label.

For James, this collection is a sentimental one, since he's collaborated with Sri Lanka's homebred Kandygs and Selyn handlooms. He's been a fan of Sri Lankan crafts since his first visit to Colombo, 20 years ago.
While the world debates a green revolution, James keeps it simple by working with local raw materials rather than engaging in cash-draining manufacture of patterns and fabrics. His recent tryst with the Sholapuri blankets and lungis generated a wave of interest. "It's important to reconnect with what's readily available in the local market and sustain not just oneself, but also the soon-fading textiles culture. Ethnic fabrics are mostly pure silk or cotton, which appeals to my design sensibility. I hate polyester."

Everything about James spells anti-establishment. Ridiculous highs and tactless lows of the bickering Indian fashion industry -- he has survived with an almost Buddhist detachment. The 53 year-old took a determined one-and-half-year break from fashion weeks. "I'd have lost my essence. I'm not interested in Lakmu00e9 Fashion Week, simply because the event attracts Bollywood and local buyers. I was happy to show at Delhi Fashion Week, but its recent merger with FDCI's India Fashion Week has confused designers like me. Till they don't sort out their differences, I'll stay away."

He offers his trademark all-knowing laugh when we discuss the use of draping the fabric to lend it layered character rather than surface embellishments. The younger lot (Anuj Sharma, Gaurav Gupta and Saviojon Fernandes) have made it their signature style but James tinkered with the idea decades ago. But he isn't complaining. "I've been way too fashion forward with my Western clothes for Indian women. I know my time has just come, with the modern woman putting her money on simplicity, wearability and the magic of drape."