Hindi-Chini high five

Updated: Nov 11, 2019, 08:28 IST | Ashwin Ferro | Mumbai

IC Colony's newest fine dine, Sumeruu, named after a mountain on the Indo-China border, is a food summit you'd love to scale

Railway cooker curry
Railway cooker curry

Food: Satisfying
Ambience: Comfortable
Service: Earnest
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 1/4

IC Colony's latest fine-dine addition, Sumeruu, believes in subtracting the faff from the food, which explains its near-zero presence in the virtual world that is tee­ming with both real and fake foodgasms.

The resto opened on September 13 but only recently appeared on food aggregators, and have done zero promotions because owners Kapil Lala and Abhijit Shetty, both hotel management graduates, believe that if the food is good, you don't need to add too much of promotional spices. And like any good partnership, the two young opening batsmen have begun slowly and steadily with their Indo-Chinese offering — the name is derived from a mountain located between the India and China border — in this quiet Catholic-dominated region of Borivali West.

Chicken oyester and shallotsChicken oyester and shallots

We begin with the Dr Rupas gingerale (Rs 220), and the sub-editor in me couldn't help but catch the missing apostrophe. Thankfully, that's the only thing missing in the drink that was invented by Lala's customer-cum-friend who is also a medical health professional. It's no wonder then that the healthy concoction of homemade ginger ale and jaljeera, named after its health-conscious inventor, sets the perfect foundation in our tummy for a long innings ahead.

Food

For starters, we call for the sunehri machchi (Rs 400), chicken oysters and shallots (Rs 340) and galouti kebabs (Rs 460). The crisp, golden-fried basa effortlessly swims into our system along with its mustard-mayo sauce accompaniment, while the brilliantly cooked oyster and chicken combo reassures us that the Lala-Shetty partnership is set to bloom. But just then, a wicket falls. The galouti is nowhere near the melt-in-your-mouth softness that is expected from a kebab that was specifically invented for an ageing and toothless Lucknowi nawab who was unable to chew his food.

Thandai ice creamThandai ice cream

Fortunately, this was the only wicket that fell. The middle order (read: main course) saw an outstanding performance by the railway cooker curry (Rs 520) that arrived in a cute red mini-cooker. The beautifully simmered, falling-off-the-bo­ne lamb tasted like a dream as did the heeng-based curry that we devoured with the Mr Dependable of this line-up, the taftan (included in a Rs 200 assorted bread basket sufficient for two people) — an ultra-soft bread that originated in Iran and is made by mixing the dough with milk and yoghurt.

Dr Rupas GingeraleDr Rupas Gingerale

For dessert, we tried a couple of unique ice creams especially sourced from a vendor in SoBo — thandai (Rs 180) and red chilli (Rs 180). While the former's flavour and texture took us straight to a Holi afternoon where the liquid version is gulped down by one and all, the latter was a perfect blend of sugar and spice, compelling us to raise our bat in acknowledgement of a fine innings, cheered on by a well-dressed and well-informed support staff.

4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE

Sumeruu didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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