India calling on the runway
Louis Vuitton's recent Rajasthan-inspired line presented at the Paris Men's Fashion Week has put India back in the spotlight. the guide presents more Indian influences that blitzed international ramps
CHURIDAAR CHIC AND TIKKAS
Designer Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Metiers d’Art Pre-Fall collection show, titled Paris-Bombay, in 2011, was one of the most extravagant and famous India-inspired shows.
A model in a boiler suit embellished with cross-stitch and tiny mirrors, and another one in a lehariya-inspired print, famous in Rajasthan. These were part of Louis Vuitton’s collection at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June 2014. Pics/AFP
India’s artistic inheritance — its jewels, colours and fabrics, were used by Lagerfeld to the hilt. Mang tikkas, payals, sarees and kurta and churidaars were part of the collection.
A model wearing Matthew Williamson’s design at the London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013. The playful colour palette consisting of hot pink, aqua, orange and red was inspired by the festival of Holi. Patterned mini skirts with patched details were a result of the designer’s fascination with the work on heavy sarees. The collection also had water-coloured prints inspired by the landscape of Kerala.
PEACOCKS ALL THE WAY
Designer Vera Wang looked towards India for her New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer line in 2012 and brought forth the vibrancy of the country by using a rich colour palette boasting of cobalt blue, emerald green, fuchsia, lemon and black tones. The peacock prints and gold embellishments along with brocade work pronounced the Indian flavour.
What Indian designers have to say...
Gaurav Gupta: India is a world of mysteries. It is a fascinating place. It is the land of snake charmers, peacocks and millions of gods and goddesses and is the only place that celebrates different styles of silhouettes.
Rajesh Pratap Singh: India appeals to international designers because they find cultures apart from theirs exotic. It’s the same reason why, in rural India, ‘jeans pant’ is the coolest thing in the world. You always aspire, want and get fascinated by what you don’t have and fashion really uses that insecurity over and over again.
Gaurang Shah: There has been a profound influence of Indian art, culture and heritage in the West, not just in recent times but for many years. They love our weaves, the bright hues and colours, textures, and design culture. Equally alluring for them are the intricate Chikan work and Phulkari and Bagh or the Adha Bagh work on cloth.
>> Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection shown at the London Fashion Week had clothes with beading work done in India.
>> Louis Vuitton’s 2010 collection was inspired by Diwali and had garments showcasing Indian paisley motifs on fine woven silk Banarasi fabrics.
>> Dior’s Fall 2009 collection used rich brocades, Ikat patterns and paisley prints.
>> Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2008 line showcased saree dresses with the border running around the drape and attires created out of peacock designs.
MAKING HEADS TURN Jean-Paul Gaultier, known for his love for Indian crafts and styles, made his models wear turbans while they walked the ramp for the Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter collection in 2012.
KALI-EDOSCOPE Models walked the runway during the Givenchy show at the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 in September 2013 with blue sequined masks. It was said that the look of this Riccardo Tisci collection was inspired by Goddess Kali.