Is chef Kelvin Cheung's new restaurant in Bandra worth a try?
Helmed by a Chinese-Canadian who has made Mumbai his home, chef Kelvin Cheung, One Street Over, his gastropub in Bandra, is a must-visit for fusion flavours and unusual cocktails
As we stepped into One Street Over — set up in the same spot as Community in Bandra (W) — we caught a glimpse of chef Kelvin Cheung making a dash through the dimly-lit, tastefully furnished, teal-mahogany themed gastropub, straight into the kitchen, carrying what looked like sauce bottles. In between shouting orders to his staff and making calls, Cheung greeted us with a smile, "This is pretty normal." Starting this Monday, the city's blue-eyed chef —who left the gourmands mourning when he quit Colaba diner Ellipsis — will helm the kitchen with his aide, chef de cuisine Boo Kwang Kim (of the Chicago restaurant Little Goat fame) at the 60-seater is the latest venture by Aallia Hospitality.
Egg in my cocktail
Though matchbox-sized, the well-equipped bar helmed by mixologist Arijit Bose impressed us with unusual concoctions. Ginger spiced Mr T, with three types of rum blended with limejuice, swept us off our feet with its smooth flavours. With a strong coconut flavour, the rum-based Pain Killer soothed our nerves. However, the winner was Pisco Sour, blending a Peruvian brandy with limejuice and egg white. We love our whiskey sour and we loved this twist even more.
Small plates, big flavours Priced between Rs 350 and Rs 750, the gastropub offers small plates with Cheung’s signature modern American touch, which complement the bar menu. Still work-in-progress, expect interesting combinations and loads of seasonal produce or in chef Cheung’s words, “a fun menu”. Excited, we waited for the first dish and what appeared was Burrata Plate. The creamy Italian cheese was topped with thin, fermented baby carrots along with carrot marinara sauce, carrot vinaigrette and pesto. With hints of onion and garlic, the tangy carrot cut through the creamy cheese, and served with crunchy sourdough bread, the dish was a winner.
Date With Bacon
Matching its quirky name, Date With Bacon comprised sweet leathery stripes of dates that complemented the cured bacon along with pickled strawberries that added tanginess to the dish. Though no fans of the vegetable, a burst of flavours greeted us as we dug into Cauliflower Salad.
Chef Kelvin Cheung with chef de cuisine Boo Kwang Kim of One Street Over
The chargrilled florets dipped in cashew hummus and mint coconut chutney tasted delicious and hints of sesame seeds, garlic chips and fresh pomegranate added to the flavour. Presenting a comfy vibe and offering innovative flavours, One Street Over makes for a great new hangout or post-work pub. What’s more, we were told, if one drops by post midnight, the chef may also rustle up late night eats, different from the menu. Bring it on.
Mixologist Arijit Bose mixes a Pisco Sour. Pics/Pradeep Dhivar
Opens: on December 21
Time: 7 pm till 1 am
At: Ground Floor, Navrang Building, near National College and Hotel Linkway, off Linking Road, Khar (W).