More chew, than bite?

Mar 20, 2012, 11:21 IST | Aviva Dharmaraj

There's variety at this new bakery and patisserie that opened earlier this month on Colaba Causeway; if only they had focused a little on the details

There's variety at this new bakery and patisserie that opened earlier this month on Colaba Causeway; if only they had focused a little on the details

The first night we went looking for Leo's Boulangerie, we had to abandon mission, as it was past 10 pm and no one seemed to be at the other side of our call for directions. The second night, we decided to set out earlier, reaching around 8.30 pm. We took a few wrong turns, and made at least two phone calls to finally arrive, if a little 'shiny', for our taste test.

Fans of sweet bread will like the jammy Danish Pastry

The staff is friendly, the vibe is warm and the walls a bright, sunflower-yellow at this tiny new bakery, run by one of the seven partners behind Colaba Causeway's Leopold Caf �. The bright, fluorescent light means that you get a good look at the cheesecakes, brownies, and mousse cakes on display in showcases. The breads and cookies are displayed on the shelves facing the display counters.

The Kahlua Mousse cake looks better than it tastes

The menu lists over 25 types of cakes and pastries, 15 types of breads and an assortment of cookies, brownies, croissants and quiche. They also do rolls and a couple of vegetarian and non-vegetarian sandwiches that they can rustle up in "six minutes". Not all the cakes and pastries mentioned on the menu are available on the same day, of course, but you can call in advance to check, or place your order.

The corn, mushroom and paneer in this roll are tossed in generous
amounts of chilled mayonnaise. Pics/ Bipin Kokate

Leo's Boulangerie has no seating, so you will have to ask for your order to go unless, of course, you don't mind standing and eating. We asked to have our order packed, and headed outside to sit on the steps of an abandoned building to divide our loot for the evening.

Look at me!
The Kahlua Mousse Cake (Rs 70) was skillfully garnished, but not as skillfully made. The mousse was neither light as air, nor rich enough for us to overlook its texture. The Rum and Raisin Brownie(Rs 60) too was pretty to look at, but dry, and therefore a letdown. Vodka and green chillies is typically a genius combination, but the Vodka Green Chilli Mousse (Rs 75) didn't work for us. The mousse, we suspect, was thickened with gelatine, which is insurance against the mousse collapsing, but it's not the real deal, and even the eventual kick of the chilli couldn't compensate for the chewy texture.

Bread baskets line the summery walls of Leo's Boulangerie

The Danish Pastry (Rs 50) with a sticky apricot glaze fared far better and is worth trying, if you're a fan of sweet breads. The filling of corn, mushrooms and paneer stirred into chilled mayonnaise and tightly wrapped inside a kathi roll made for an unusual, though far from unpleasant, snack in the form of the American Corn, Mushroom and Paneer Roll (Rs 60). It's also good value for money.

Details count
While the staff is helpful, even friendly, we were disappointed that they had forgotten to include napkins, or plastic cutlery for us. They had also forgotten to pack the Cheesecake that we had paid for. Teething troubles? We hope so. Though, we fear, thoughtful staff is the least of Leo's problems, and hope that things get better. Soon.

At: Leo's Boulangerie, Henry Road, Colaba Causeway, off SBS Road.
Call: 61559781

Leo's Boulangerie didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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