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Home > Mumbai Guide News > Mumbai Food News > Article > Mumbai Food Head to Kalbadevi to relish lip smacking snacks

Mumbai Food: Head to Kalbadevi to relish lip-smacking snacks

Updated on: 30 June,2018 03:44 PM IST  |  Mumbai
Dhara Vora Sabhnani |

This monsoon, head out on a food trail tucked inside Kalbadevi, home to some of Mumbai's oldest snacking addas

Mumbai Food: Head to Kalbadevi to relish lip-smacking snacks

Pics/Dhara Vora Sabhnani

The commercial hubs of Mumbai, new or old have given the city a vibrant food history based on the eras they emerged in. Be it the countless hip new restaurants and bars that continue to open in Lower Parel and Bandra Kurla Complex, chiwda galli in the mill district of Parel or the Irani cafés of Fort. One such old market of the city, and one of the richest in the country, is Zaveri Bazaar. Though the merchants deal in gold and diamonds every day, the area is home to some of the most pocket-friendly stalls and eateries that offer delicious value-for-money finds. So whether you need to buy gold and fabric (Mangaldas Market and Mulji Jetha Market) or not, here’s why you should head to one the oldest markets of the city for a crispy evening.




Khaman jaman
The yellow khaman dhokla is a light snack available across the city. Giving it a twist is Bipin Patel who has been serving the unique sev khamni for 15 years now. A warm snack, khaman dhokla is crushed and given a tadka, this mixture is then served with a sprinkle of sev for crunch. Chopped onions (without which it’s a Jain dish) add a sweet flavour to the dish, which is made such that it doesn’t need any chutneys for extra flavour.
Time 1 pm to 8.30 pm AT Agrawal Fast Food, Agiyari Lane.
Call 9773736063
Cost Rs 30

Pakka papad
One of the most popular snacks of Zaveri Bazaar is the khichiya papad. However, most papad sellers have been driven out of the erstwhile popular khau galli of the market. Made with a thick khichiya papad that is roasted on coal, the papad is coated with oil or butter, and gets a topping of cabbage, tomatoes, chana dal, pomegranate, sev and many chutneys. You might find an occasional vendor right at the entrance of the lane near Mumbadevi temple. We spotted one just off Kalbadevi Road, near Dadisheth Agiyari lane.
At In the lane of Thaker Bhojanalay.
Cost Rs 30

Number game
"A to zhed masala rehta hai isme, isliye chappan masala," says Banarasi Das Gupta, who has been serving the special Jain chappan masala snack for 46 years now. The dish includes 10 different snack items such as chana jor garam, sev, dal muth and besan-coated groundnuts, all of which are prepared without any salt. The special masala, lemon, salt and tomato and onion is then added to this mix.
At Agiyari Lane, near Mohanbhai Pudlawala.
Call 28771805
Cost Rs 20 per plate

Kachoris made in ghee

Bhajiya buzz
"Itne blast hue, dange hue, Mumbai waise ka waisa he rahega, (After so many blasts and riots, Mumbai still remains the same)," says 65-year-old Teekaram Pareek ( in pic centre), who runs the 120-year-old Nathulal Gopilal Kachori Bhajia Wala. The shop was started by his grandfather (after whom the shop is named) who came to this city from Jaipur. Pareek now runs the shop with his son Atul (in pic right). Their speciality is moong dal kachori, which is fried in ghee and served with chutney. We also love their moong dal bhajia. They also serve jalebi, and different types of gathias.
Time 7 am to 8 pm AT Shop no 3, 4 and 5, Khara Kua.
Call 23413759
Cost Rs 22 per 50gm

Bhel galore
Started in 1941 by Tatoba Tukaram Mane, Mumbai Bhel Puri house mixes two loves of Gujaratis; farsan and chaat. They offer regular chat and farsan items such as bhel, dahi kachori, different types of gathia and sev, jalebi, boondi and dahi puri. But their unique offering is lakdi bhel and Surti bhel. Lakdi bhel is made with khaman dhokla, lakdi gathia (in pic) different chutneys and sev. Surti bhel uses mix farsan instead of the gathia, and the rest of the ingredients remain the same.
Time 7 am to 9 pm AT Saraf Premises, near Khara Kuwa.
Call 23460708
Cost Rs 35

Thali tales
From Asha Bhosle to Nigella Lawson, Kalbadevi’s Shree Thaker Bhojanalay has served various locals and stars since 1945. Founded by Maganbhai Purohit, the thali cost 25 paise back in the day and was served on a patla or a low stool. An air-conditioned property, the restaurant offers delicious homely unlimited Gujarati thali.
Time 11.30 am to 3 pm and 7 pm to 10 pm
At Dadisheth Agiyari Lane, off Kalbadevi Road.
Call 22069916
Cost Rs 500

Hatke halwa
Known for its ice halwa or Bombay halwa, Mohanlal S Mithaiwala has many outlets in the city today and even delivers to the UK and the US. Their headquarters though is in the heart of Zaveri Bazaar. Also known as Regal Sweets, the family has been in the business for over 50 years now and have created different versions of the ice halwa.
Time 8.30 am to 8.30 pm
At T271/273, Zaveri Bazaar.
Call 23439944
Cost Rs 350 onwards

Also visit
Jalebiwala, an over 100-year-old eatery that sells jalebi and fafda.
At Near Mumbadevi temple, they now have several outlets in the city.
Call 9324527916

Mohanbhai Pudlawala at Lala Fast Food offers besan and mung dal pudlas.
At 3rd Agiyari Lane, Gambhir Bhavan.

Jagannath Chaturbhuj Halwai (over 120 years old), another place known for its ghee kachoris.
At 3rd Agiyari Lane
Call 23426143

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