Mumbai Food: Lower Parel eatery still the master of Asian cuisine
Five months after launching, this Lower Parel eatery still makes it a night to remember
The Phoenix Mills courtyard that separates it from Palladium has the prettiest festive set-up, a light installation of a dome with a couple dancing beneath it. We take the steps up to Foo, which on a Wednesday night is packed."
The first thing to notice about the restaurant is its service; impeccable from the word go till we walk out two hours later after a satisfying meal. We are requested to take a table for 40 minutes until the next reservation arrives, after which, we have been warned, the bar is the only seating available.
Water chestnut in yellow curry
We take a chance and order a round of drinks and appetisers, soaking in the dimly lit interiors with red décor and yellow lights from the wooden lanterns.
In spite of being non-vodka drinkers, we are attracted to Foo king (Rs 475), made with plum liqueur, French vanilla, musk melon and lime. The fruity base blends well with the acidity. The yuzu negroni (Rs 500) gives us our gin dose, with hints of orange rind, the tang of yuzu and finish of cherries making it a stiffer drink. Not that we are complaining.
The black marble sesame cheesecake
We club this with a lotus root and guacamole taco (Rs 360), which tastes like a desi mixed vegetable in a taco, but rather enjoy the classy black charcoaled har gow dimsum (Rs 390), dressed with a golden finish.
We are now moved to the bar, which surprisingly is very comfortable, designed to serve as a spacious table top. We dig into the spicy sambal prawns ('520) gravy with buttery Foo Japanese blue rice (Rs 320) tinged with garlic. From the Jain menu, we order the water chestnut in yellow curry (Rs 475).
Charcoal har-gow, gold dust dimsum
Smartly executed, the Foo menu serves dishes that have mass appeal. And without overtly Indianising the palate, they give the customers just what they want. The Foo hakka noodles (Rs 250) are soya sauce tossed, and slightly overcooked.
The black marble sesame cheesecake (Rs 350) is a modern-looking piece of art, with white and grey shades on a buttery biscuit base. We walk out smiling, pleased with the service that needs two cheers and food that is hearty and not too harsh on the pocket.
Time 12 noon to 1.30 am
At Phoenix Mill Compound (next to Hamleys), Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
The Guide first reviewed Foo in July 2018. We conduct select, anonymous follow-ups to assess maintenance of standards
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