Mumbai Food: New Juhu property offers experience of beach lounge, bistro and club under one roof
Restaurateur Ryan Tham greets us with a smile and tells us that his brother, Keenan, is off on a skiing trip, as he seats us on a plush velvet chair in Trilogy Asian Bistro, one of the three new properties started by the Tham brothers
Crispy edamame black truffle wonton
Guests at Hotel Sea Princess sit by the pool with the sound of waves for company. Restaurateur Ryan Tham, dressed in a blue chequered shirt, greets us with a smile and tells us that his brother, Keenan, is off on a skiing trip, as he seats us on a plush velvet chair in Trilogy Asian Bistro, one of the three new properties started by the Tham brothers. The other two are Trilogy BeachClub where you can have pre-party drinks, and Trilogy SuperClub, a new version of their popular disco, the final destination to drink some more after you eat enough at the Bistro.
Trilogy special roll
"We wanted to shut down Trilogy on a high note and come back stronger. Now, in addition to these spaces, we will also do in-room dining for the hotel," Tham tells us. The club, which opened late December, serves small plates in addition to classic cocktails. The BeachClub will offer Asian-style sliders, sandwiches and fries such as Asian fish and chips, in addition to the menu at the Bistro.
Medallion lobster in Singapore Laksa sauce
Chef Eric Sifu, who has also designed the menu for their Lower Parel property Koko, has curated the dishes. The cocktails are by Dimi Lezinska. We first lay our chopsticks on the Trilogy special roll ('590), a veg roll made with black rice from the Northeast; the tempura yam bean in the centre being the magic ingredient. We indulge ourselves with more than a couple pieces. The tangy edamame pods ('390) tempt us to call for a beer, and as if on cue, Tham gets one for himself.
The white truffle and wild salmon roll ('850) plays on textures, bound together by the refreshing natural flavour of the fish. As we browse through the menu, we realise that the chef has managed to capture the balance of comfort food and glam plates for an evening out, which is the key to an all-day bistro that also serves as a pit stop before a night of partying. The comforters being a silken organic spinach truffle soup ('360), and yellow curry ('490) with tender coconut and a crunch of water chestnuts, served with quinoa and edamame veg fried rice ('450). Desserts include a theatrical mess on the table ('550), which comprises a chocolate ball that needs to be broken down with a spoon. But it is the Asian fare that endears our heart more.
Bistro and SuperClub
As Tham takes us on a tour of the SuperClub, where the erstwhile LED cubes have been replaced with moving LED spheres and a mobile DJ console, we make a mental note to not miss the launch party and let our hair down at the trippy club, and savour some red snapper and chive dumplings while there.
Ryan and Keenan Tham. Pics/Satej Shinde, Pradeep Dhivar
Opens on February 7, 11 am to 1 am (Bistro) and 11 am to 12 pm (BeachClub)
At Sea Princess Hotel, Santacruz West.