Mumbai Food: Pop-up in SoBo serve rustic delicacies from Malabar with modern approach

Jul 11, 2018, 14:34 IST | Phorum Dalal

The chef-entrepereneur at Curry Tales is all set to launch a new restaurant in Goa by the end of August, but Mumbaikars will get a taste of some of the modern delicacies from the West coast

Mumbai Food: Pop-up in SoBo serve rustic delicacies from Malabar with modern approach
Slow-cooked mackerel with plums

If you have indulged in Sandeep Sreedharan's menus, you know his flavours are rustic, but the approach is modern. The chef-entrepereneur at Curry Tales is all set to launch a new restaurant in Goa by the end of August, but Mumbaikars will get a taste of some of the modern delicacies from the West coast at an upcoming pop-up titled Malabar at SoBo's The Clearing House. "The restaurant is named Mahe, after my hometown," Sreedharan reveals, adding that his menu will also cover delicacies from Sri Lanka. "It's a new concept, where rusticity and modernism will overlap seamlessly," he says, with a nervous excitement.

Potato curry with morel mushrooms and chevre
Potato curry with morel mushrooms and chevre

The four-course menu will begin with a rasam consommé and yogurt-rice mousse amuse bouche served with ikan bilis (anchovies). "This is inspired by the combinate of rasam rice and yogurt, which I used to eat during the monsoon while growing up in Kerala. My most flavourful memory of childhood is my mum's potato curry which I am serving as an appetiser with morel mushrooms, with French chèvre cheese and having seen avocado in the Mahe markets in abundance, incorporation of the "venna pazham (butter fruit) as avocado chutney, served with a crisp dosa," he adds, The menu has an equal number of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. For the pop-up, red snapper and lobsters will be sourced from the Andaman Islands, sea bass from the east coast and imported scallops.

Sandeep Sreedharan
Sandeep Sreedharan

Seafood offerings include scallops in pea puree and pachadi foam; and red snapper ceviche with tigre-de-liche-coco, cucumber, and guava and slow-cooked mackerel with plums and coconut air. The latter reminds the chef of eating plums from the trees that grew in his uncle's front yard in Coonoor while his aunt cooked a tangy and umami slow-cooked mackerel for lunch. "I've combined the two memories; nature and food," he adds.

The entrée has black-eyed bean with toori, spiced coconut air and coconut rice. "This dish is very ayurvedic in principle as the alkaline toori negates the effects of saponin (an anti-nutrient) from the beans," Sreedharan explains.

From the mains, pescatarians can opt for lobster with stew foam and kaima ghee rice or a steamed sea bass with sweet and tangy puliinchi-squid ink served with coconut rice. The coastal visit will end with a caramelised jackfruit served with coconut ice cream. We trust Sreedharan to feed us well.
ON: July 13, 14
AT: The Clearing House, 13-15 Calicut Street, Ballard Estate.
CALL: 22683030
COST: Rs 3,500 for two without alcohol

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