The menu of an all-Asian takeaway in Santacruz raises our expectations, but the food needs overall improvement
Chicken hakka noodles
Food Review
Food/Average
Packaging/Good
Service/Great
Cost/Reasonable
Verdict/
What unfortunately happens all too often is that restaurants over-promise with their menus, but under-deliver when the actual food arrives. It could be that a certain eatery describes a drink with a line like, “A delicate dark rum-based cocktail with fruity notes and an earthy finish.” But when the drink is served, it turns out to be nothing more than Old Monk with pineapple juice. That leaves the diner feeling shortchanged, since it’s the culinary equivalent of reaching for the stars and winding up with a handful of mud instead.
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That’s pretty much what happens in the case of Pink Panther as well. It’s a new takeaway that’s opened in Santa Cruz. The menu involves an eclectic mix of Asian dishes, with a range of Southeast Asian and Far-eastern countries appearing in the food names. It’s also divided into different sections such as Street Style, Street Food and Agemono (a typically deep-fried Japanese snack). All this bodes well for the average patron given the wide range of choices. And an order is thus placed for three dishes, with Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisines represented in one item each.
Crunchy tempura uramaki roll
Japan is up first, with crunchy tempura uramaki roll (R350). But a disclaimer needs to be made here first, which is that – since the eatery doesn’t deliver to the desired location — the food is picked up directly from the joint and sampled only about an hour later because of, well, Mumbai traffic. That might be why the toriko – or flying fishing roe shaped like tiny orange balls — that the sushi is covered with have lost all the crunch that they are supposed to add. It’s otherwise a decent enough version given its price, though nothing compared to the ones at some of the fancy Japanese eateries that have recently popped up in the city.
Thailand is the next stop on the culinary trip, in the form of a Thai minced basil chicken (R350), sticky rice and fried egg bowl. But as soon as the container is opened, the heart skips a beat. A red layer of oil on top makes the dish look as lethal as a knife with blood dripping from it. But one bite dispels the fear of the dish being fatally spicy. It’s surprisingly delicate, in fact, with the basil playing only a subtle role in the entire flavouring. But is it a “Thai” dish? Yes, it is, as much as Virat Kohli being the captain of the Pakistani cricket team.
Thai minced basil chicken, sticky rice and fried egg bowl
That leaves China as the final destination. Or, make that India. For, the while concept of chicken hakka noodles (R139) is as Chindian as it gets. The version here isn’t as greasy as the dish can be at lunch homes across the city. Rather, it’s a bit too dry, even though the flavours are clean.
The problem with Pink Panther, then, is that it’s too much of a hotchpotch of different Asian cuisines. It would have perhaps been better if the menu hadn’t been this promising. To sound a bit like Uncle Ben in Spiderman — if you build great expectations, you also have to shoulder great responsibility.
At Ajanta Building, SV Road, opposite Khira Nagar, Bhim Wada, Santacruz West.
Time 12 pm to 4 pm; 7 pm to 12.30 am
Call 26124004
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