The price of exclusivity
This fine-dining restaurant in Colaba might source tuna from the Maldives and beets from Holland, but the steep prices are likely to leave the average diner poorer and, worse, unimpressed
The place with three dots for a name (‘Ellipsis’) might want to keep diners guessing, but two things that you can be sure of are: big names and big money are involved in the venture. ‘Big names’ include American chef siblings Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, known in the culinary and reality TV worlds as The Voltaggio brothers, who have consulted on the menu and trained the staff, award-winning German-American designer Thomas Schoos, who has worked on the look, and fashion designer Arjun Khanna, who has designed the staff uniforms.
The over 4,000 sq ft split-level restaurant that specialises in American cuisine opens into the bar/ lounge area, with a staircase on the right leading to the dining area, including a Chef’s Table, and a private dining room that can seat up to 10. The lounge area with its several oil paintings and dim lighting has been designed along the lines of a living room, a very expensive living room: think ‘millionaire’, think ‘Wayne Manor’, when Bruce Wayne/ Batman was played by Michael Keaton. The first-floor dining area, where we chose to sit, is an exploration of the same idea.
The claim is that the one-page menu changes daily, based on the availability of fresh produce and the ‘freshness’ of several of their imported ingredients that are sourced from around the world, including South Africa and Holland.
On the evening we dropped by, Ravioli with basil foam (Rs 700) was one of the mains on the menu. While it was clear that a great deal of thought, even fussiness, had gone into the presentation of this dish, the ravioli was too al dente for our liking. We did, however, like the filling of herbed goat cheese, eggplant purée and tomato.
The Pan-seared Chicken with baby carrots and green beans(Rs 750) made for a hearty main. We especially loved the crispy chicken skin. The real treat, however, was the chocolate dessert that featured Chocolate and Kahlua Mousse, dehydrated chocolate mousse crisp, white chocolate soil and milk chocolate ice cream. This is a great dessert for two, or one die-hard chocoholic.
While the food is not necessarily revelatory, if it is a celebratory meal that you’re after, this is the place to drop some serious cash. Our suggestion is to drop by for Happy Hours (6 pm and 8 pm) that kick off from this Saturday, or for after-dinner drinks (and dessert), since the only way to care less about the prices is to get seriously sozzled.
At: B-1, Amarchand Mansion, 16, Madame Cama Road, Colaba.
Call: 66213333 (Open from 7 pm to 1.30 am)
‘Ellipsis’ didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.