Chinese food, or at least its local variant, has found favour with Mumbai's foodies for decades. But Chinese culture? For a glimpse of that, drop into Golden Dragon where waiters are trained to pour tea from a 2.5 feet-long spout without spilling a drop
Chinese food, or at least its local variant, has found favour with Mumbai's foodies for decades. But Chinese culture? For a glimpse of that, drop into Golden Dragon where waiters are trained to pour tea from a 2.5 feet-long spout without spilling a drop
To please your future in-laws, you must demonstrate a sense of dignity and refinement. You must also be poised," drones the "scarier than the undertaker" matchmaker as she commands Mulan to "pour the tea" in a rib-tickling scene from Disney's animated retelling of the story about a Chinese heroine who is being graded on her bride-ability. 
Mulan's grand destiny led her away from the kitchen and take her father's place in the Imperial army. Our destiny, thankfully, would hold simpler surprises today. Through the afternoon, we were going to be treated to teas that were not just rich in flavour but also brewed in tradition.
Teapot that says, lay off!
As the Captain brought out a large gold pot fitted with a dragon handle, and a needle-thin spout that measured at least two-and-a-half feet, he said, "At wartime, when the Chinese emperor would discuss strategies with his generals, secrecy was paramount. These pots were designed to ensure that even his attendants pouring tea, didn't get close enough to the table to eavesdrop."
Even today in China, there are a few tea houses where servers dish out a quick performance with pots like this one, spinning it dexterously around their torsos, before they pour you a cup. Water shoots out with just the slightest tip of the pot, evidencing the hours of practice that must go into ensuring not a single drop is spilled. "Three of our servers have been specially trained to pour tea from this pot, without spilling it," the Captain tells us, as steam rises out of our Gaiwan (lidded cup).
It's nice to see that here, at Golden Dragon that opened its doors in 1973 to become the first to offer Indians a taste of authentic Schezwan food, they still endeavour to offer guests something new.
Though the servers here don't perform a whole, ornate Chinese tea ceremony, their mini-ritual serves as a reminder of how much significance tea-drinking once held in China. Why, tea even features in some folk dances that are performed during festivals in certain Chinese provinces.
It's interesting that while so many of us gulp down Chinese tea today, recognise as we do the medicinal worth of these brews, few of us know that in traditional Chinese tea ceremonies, the emphasis is not on the beverage alone. The type of tea is selected carefully to suit the nature of the company, and music, ambience and etiquette are just as important.
In addition, a typical Chinese tea-service requires chopsticks, drinking cups, sniffing cups, a couple of empty bowls and most importantly perhaps, the know-how of the ritual that involved not just the infusion of the
tea but also a methodical and rhythmically-managed sterilisation of the cups. And far from being considered rude, slurping your tea was part of the custom.
For weight loss
These traditions were meant to glorify, not overshadow the herb whose medicinal worth was, legend has it, recognised by a Chinese ruler over 4,000 years ago. Drawing a distinction between herbal teas and the Chinese Camellia Sinensis, the Captain at Golden Dragon says, "These are natural teas, and while most people believe the converse is true, all of these contain caffeine."
Offering us a cupful of a white tea christened Silver Needles (Rs 375), the Captain points out that this variety is especially rich in anti-oxidants, but that China Pheur (Rs 325), a red tea on their menu, is great for weight loss.
Their flavours are at opposite extremes of the spectrum too: Silver Needles is so mild, you can hardly pick up its essence, while China Pheur has a rich, earthy flavour. Other varieties available here include Green Silk, Jasmine, Ying Yang (each priced at Rs 325) but it is the Apple-Cinnamon (Rs 325) variety that has the sweetest aroma.
The Chinese Blooming Flower tea (Rs 325) is the show stealer. It's served in a simple glass, with good reason. Within seconds of being immersed in boiling water, the unimpressive green bud starts to unfurl, and even as you watch, it blossoms into a gorgeous reddish flower that sinks to the bottom of the glass, compelling you to draw closer for a better look, as it beguiles you with its subtly sweet aroma.
At: Golden Dragon, Taj Mahal Palace & Towers, Apollo Bunder.
Call: 66653366
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