Why Mumbai's lone eatery for Berlin street food in Bandra disappoints

Mar 05, 2018, 13:45 IST | Phorum Dalal

A revisit to Mumbai's lone eatery for Berlin street food in Bandra seems to have hit a roadblock after a promising opening last year

Our fellow-reviewer has just returned from Berlin, and is chatty than ever before, talking about the city's vibrant street art scene, a trek to Devil's Mountain, and the origins of the döner kebab, a Turkish delight invented in Berlin! It is the ideal information to get her to tag along with us to Malhzeit, the city's only authentic Berlin street food option. Derived from the original 'Gesegnete Mahlzeit', literally meaning 'blessed mealtime', the salutation is similar to bon appétit. The space was opened in May 2017 by Berlin-born half-German Milan Pal, who set up the first outlet in Pune's Koregaon Park two years before that.

Nestled in a lane that also houses Yugo Sushi, we occupy one of the two tables in the small space that mainly caters to delivery orders. A look at the menu and our Germany-return points to Club Mate. "It's a super-caffeinated drink, you must try!" she reccos. But it is out of stock, the person manning the counter tells us, promising it will be back on the menu in two days. Mahlzeit's logo is the Ampelmännchen, literally meaning the little traffic light men; it's a symbol ubiquitously seen on pedestrian signals in Germany. Here, they have donned a chef's hat.

Classic döner kebab
Classic döner kebab

We waste no time in ordering, and call for bratwurst and currywurst mix ('270). The bratwurst pork sausages come topped with caramelised onions and mustard, and the currywurst is topped with Berlin-style curry ketchup that could do with some more curry punch. The sausages are well marinated and delightful on their own. The fries look pale, though, and lack the sheen of freshly fried crisps.

Bratwurst and currywurst mix
Bratwurst and currywurst mix

The classic döner kebab in chicken ('220) is a toasted bread pocket filled with lettuce and chicken pieces, and drizzled with yogurt and curry sauce. The bread is lightly toasted; the filli­ng of lettuce and chicken is generou­sly drizzled with spicy mayo sauce. Our only response is we've had better. Our last dish, the bauernfruhstuck, is a large portion of disc fries topped with a fried egg and served with homemade mayonnaise. A simple-yet-filling farmer's breakfast, the potatoes, surprisingly, let us down once again. The caramelised onions uplift the dish to an extent. The dessert on the board reads chocolate and vanilla salami, which is out of stock. We leave the eatery with an unsatisfied craving.

The Guide first reviewed Mahlzeit in May 2017. We conduct select, anonymous follow-ups to access maintenance of standards

At Shop no 1, Sefa House, lane facing The Bagel Shop, Pali Mala Road, Bandra West.
Timing 12.30 pm to 11.30 pm on weekends; 12.30 pm to 4 pm and 6.30 pm to 11.30 pm on weekdays
Call 7887906616
To Order,
Log on to swiggy.com

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