Mumbai Food: The art of star glazing
Chef Yogen Adep with Jack Daniele spare ribs. Pic /Sameer Abedi
How do you get the shine in that sauce?" I ask chef Yogen Adep, while he throws in butter into a barbeque sauce to paint his spare ribs.
"A demi-glace is a sauce that has acquired a shiny texture after being reduced to 50 per cent of its quantity," says the chef de cuisine at Luna, St Regis. On his new Back to Classics menu, are Jack Daniel Spare Ribs, Black Cod Aqua Pazza and Chicken Cordon Bleu. While the spare ribs get a reduced whisky glace, the black cod is poached in a broth of sea water, tomato and stock. The Chicken Cordon Bleu, which is crunch chicken folded with a layer of ham and cheese mousse, gets a demi-glace brush. "Butter, and lots of it," he says is mainly responsible for the shine. But, make sure the butter is chilled, and when you mix it, the pan should be off the flame. "If not, the sauce will curdle," he explains.
The demi-glace he makes has taken 48 hours to make. "I roast the bones, add onion, carrots, leek and celery with lots of garlic and sauté it all with some rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper. In a pot, I deglace red wine and add the bones with chilled water and cook it for two days over a slow flame. The ice extracts the marrow and wax from the bones. We reduce the sauce, strain it and then make the demi-glace with butter," he says.
Then, he offers a short cut. "Sear the lamb rack, take it off the grill. In a pan, reduce some red wine, add flour and cold butter to it. Let it thicken and your demi-glace sauce is ready!"
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